One Week in Naples: An Offbeat Itinerary
A full week closes with a slow last day back in the Centro Storico: one more pass through San Gregorio Armeno and Pignasecca, and a final sfogliatella at the counter. See the 6 day plan to cut a day, or the 2 day version for just the essentials.
| Day | Focus |
|---|---|
| 1 | Centro Storico, the Duomo, and the Veiled Christ |
| 2 | MANN, the Quartieri Spagnoli, and a funicular to Vomero |
| 3 | Napoli Sotterranea, the catacombs, and the Cimitero delle Fontanelle |
| 4 | Castel dell’Ovo, the lungomare, and the Orto Botanico |
| 5 | Capodimonte’s hilltop museum and park |
| 6 | Posillipo, Mergellina, and the coast |
| 7 | A slow last day, back where you started |
Book these before you go
- Reserve a skip-the-line Cappella Sansevero slot , timed entry only and closed Tuesdays
- Book a Napoli Sotterranea tour , departures thin out by early afternoon
- Book a Naples pizza and food tour
- Compare Naples hotel rates for a full week’s stay
Day 1: Centro Storico, the Duomo, and the Veiled Christ
Start at the Cappella Sansevero the moment your timed slot opens, before the day’s heat and crowds build; the single chapel holds Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ and moves fast, so arriving even five minutes early matters. Full fees and hours are on museosansevero.it . From there it is a five minute walk to the Duomo, where the free nave is worth a look even if you skip the separate Treasure Chapel ticket (EUR 13). Spend the rest of the morning on Spaccanapoli, the dead-straight ancient street cutting through the old Greek-Roman grid, then detour down San Gregorio Armeno to browse the nativity-scene workshops, miniature footballers and politicians included, open until roughly 18:30.
Break for lunch at Pignasecca market, Naples’ oldest and least polished, where fried street food and fresh produce spill onto the cobblestones before 10am. In the evening, join the numbered-ticket queue at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, serving only margherita and marinara since 1870, or try pizza fritta from a street stall if the wait looks too long.
Day 2: MANN, the Quartieri Spagnoli, and a funicular to Vomero
Give MANN, the National Archaeological Museum, the whole morning: the mosaics and frescoes lifted from Pompeii and Herculaneum, plus the Farnese Marbles, make more sense here than at either ruin, and the museum is closed Tuesdays, the same day as Sansevero, so plan around both. Entry runs EUR 20 (EUR 2 reduced for EU citizens 18-25), free the first Sunday of the month. Full details are on museoarcheologiconapoli.it .
In the afternoon, walk the Quartieri Spagnoli, the gritty grid of alleys either side of Via Toledo, laundry strung overhead, and find the building-sized Maradona mural and street shrine on Via Emanuele De Deo, still tended with candles and scarves. Ride the Toledo metro station on the way through, one of Line 1’s 11 “art stations” and often ranked the most beautiful metro stop in Europe. Late afternoon, take the funicular up to Vomero (EUR 1.10-1.30 on the same UnicoCampania ticket) for the sweeping bay view near Castel Sant’Elmo, noticeably cooler and quieter than the streets below.
Day 3: Napoli Sotterranea, the catacombs, and the Cimitero delle Fontanelle
Naples’ underground side deserves a full day of its own. Start with Napoli Sotterranea, a guided 90 minute to 2 hour descent 40 meters through Greco-Roman aqueduct cisterns and WWII air-raid shelters, roughly EUR 10 at the door or EUR 15 booked skip-the-line. Then head to the Sanita district for the Catacombe di San Gennaro and San Gaudioso, guided-only tours (about EUR 13) through early Christian burial chambers, some with skulls set directly into fresco portraits. Hourly departures, 10:00-17:00, closed Wednesdays; details on catacombedinapoli.it .
Finish at the Cimitero delle Fontanelle, a former quarry turned mass ossuary where tens of thousands of skulls and bones are stacked along a tufa cave, tended for generations by locals who each “adopted” a skull to pray for. Reopened in 2026, EUR 6 audio-guided or EUR 8 guided, open 10:00-18:00 (last admission 17:15), closed Wednesdays, and booking is mandatory in small groups every 15 minutes; check slots on cimiterodellefontanelle.it .
Day 4: Castel dell’Ovo, the lungomare, and the Orto Botanico
Slow the pace down. Walk out to Castel dell’Ovo on the seafront, free to enter with a view back over the whole bay, then follow the Lungomare Caracciolo promenade toward Villa Comunale, a shaded park that is considerably calmer than anything in the Centro Storico. The Orto Botanico di Napoli, a university-run garden a few minutes inland, is usually free or close to it, with limited weekday hours that shift seasonally, worth a quiet half hour if the crowds have worn you down.
In the afternoon, drift into Chiaia for boutiques and cafes, a gentler contrast to the centro’s intensity, and stop at Pintauro on Via Toledo on the way back, credited with popularizing the crisp sfogliatella riccia, a few euros each and best eaten standing at the counter. Dinner in Chiaia or back in the centro, whichever neighborhood you are staying in.
Day 5: Capodimonte’s hilltop museum and park
Head uphill to the Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte, a former royal palace turned museum with an art collection strong enough to rival anything in the centro, set inside a large wooded park that gives the whole day a slower, greener feel than the streets below. Give it a full morning; the park alone rewards an unhurried walk.
In the afternoon, come back down for the Galleria Umberto, a glass-roofed 19th-century shopping arcade near the Teatro di San Carlo, one of Europe’s oldest opera houses. If an opera or concert is running, it is worth building the evening around; if not, a slow dinner near Piazza Trieste e Trento closes the day just as well.
Day 6: Posillipo, Mergellina, and the coast
Spend the day on Naples’ quieter coastal edge. Parco Virgiliano, on the Posillipo headland, gives an open view over the whole bay toward Capri and Ischia without a single ticket booth in sight. Walk or bus down into Mergellina, the small harbor neighborhood below, for a slower, more residential feel than the tourist center.
Seafood dinner in Mergellina or along Via Partenope is the natural way to close a coastal day; both areas sit well outside the Centro Storico’s crowds and prices, and the walk back along the lungomare at sunset is worth the extra half hour over a taxi.
Day 7: A slow last day, back where you started
Save the last day for whatever got skipped. Circle back through San Gregorio Armeno for a final look at the presepe workshops, or return to Pignasecca for one more pass through the market before it closes for the day. A last sfogliatella at Pintauro, standing at the counter, is the right way to end a week built around Naples’ strange, specific pleasures rather than a generic highlight reel.
If a Tuesday or Wednesday lands on this day, remember Sansevero and MANN are shut on Tuesdays, and the Cimitero delle Fontanelle and the catacombs are shut on Wednesdays; plan the last day around whichever sites you have not yet closed out.
If Pompeii, Herculaneum, or the coast enter the plan after this week, Naples as a Campania base picks up exactly where this itinerary leaves off; everything above stays inside the city on purpose.