One Week in Uruguay: An Offbeat Itinerary

A week is what Uruguay’s whole coast actually needs, not a rushed four days. Uruguay is its own country between Argentina and Brazil, Montevideo is the capital, not Punta del Este, and the peso shares its dollar sign with actual US dollars, a genuine trap at roughly 40 pesos to the dollar in 2026. This is the full version of the 6 day route , Montevideo through Cabo Polonio, plus a final day in Punta del Diablo, the fishing village that never bothered chasing Punta del Este’s polish.

Uruguay 7 day itinerary: the whole coast, honestly paced

The route: Montevideo, Colonia del Sacramento overnight, a Canelones wine afternoon, Punta del Este and Casapueblo, Jose Ignacio, Cabo Polonio, then Punta del Diablo and Santa Teresa National Park before flying home from Carrasco.

Book these before you go

Day 1: Montevideo, the mate ritual and the market

Land at Carrasco International and get into the center by taxi (roughly 30 to 45 dollars) or the cheaper COT city bus. Spend the afternoon in Ciudad Vieja, holding Plaza Independencia, Palacio Salvo, and the underground mausoleum of independence hero Jose Artigas. Head to Mercado del Puerto, the 1868 ironwork market where parrilla stalls grill asado over open coals, and order the full parrillada if you want morcilla dulce, the sweet orange-and-walnut blood sausage, alongside the savory cuts. In the evening, walk the Rambla, and if someone offers you a shared mate, say gracias only when you are finished and do not want more.

Day 2: Colonia del Sacramento, a smugglers cobblestones

Buses leave Tres Cruces for Colonia del Sacramento roughly every hour, about 2h45 to 2h50 for 14 to 20 dollars. The UNESCO-listed Barrio Historico earned its cobblestones the hard way, fought over by Portugal and Spain for a century, and the mixed colonial styles along Calle de los Suspiros are the physical record of who held it when. Climb the 1857 lighthouse for about 100 pesos (roughly 2.50 dollars); current hours are on coloniauy.com . Stay the night, the day-tripper ferry crowd clears out by late afternoon.

Day 3: Tannat and orange wine in Canelones

Bus back to Montevideo (another 2h45), then spend the afternoon in wine country. Canelones sits 30 to 45 minutes north of the capital, and a half-day tour to a family bodega like Pizzorno, tastings and transport included, runs roughly 165 to 200 dollars. Tannat is the pour to order, a grape imported from France’s Madiran region that suits Uruguayan soil better than it ever suited its birthplace. Ask about the orange wine too, a skin-contact white fermented like a red and a real point of difference on the boutique end of the scene.

Day 4: Punta del Este without the glitz, and Casapueblo

The bus from Montevideo to Punta del Este runs every 30 minutes or so, about 2 to 2h15 for 10 to 15 dollars, or pick up the rental car here. Playa Brava holds La Mano, five concrete fingers built in 1982 by Chilean sculptor Mario Irarrazabal partly as a warning about the surf behind it. Treat the town as a stop, not the centerpiece. Casapueblo on Punta Ballena, artist Carlos Paez Vilaro’s whitewashed cliffside “livable sculpture,” is the better half day, entry about 600 pesos (15 dollars), arrive 40 minutes before sunset for the Ceremonia al Sol.

Day 5: Jose Ignacio, the quiet splurge

Jose Ignacio sits about 45 minutes east of Punta del Este, and it is the coast’s best argument for spending more, not less. Unpaved streets and a low-rise building code kept the money here understated, a real contrast with the high-rises further west. Two beaches bookend the village, La Mansa for calm water and La Brava for the surf. Between roughly July and October, Southern right whales breed off this stretch of coast, visible from the village’s own lighthouse without a boat.

Day 6: Cabo Polonio, the village with no light switch

Drop the rental car near the depot on Ruta 10 (register the plate for the cashless Telepeaje tourist pass before driving toll roads), then take the mandatory 4x4 truck through the dunes, about 30 minutes, since no private cars are allowed past that point. Current transfer details are on Portal del Cabo , and the round trip currently runs about 450 pesos per person, roughly 11 dollars, cash only. What that buys is a national park village of roughly 80 to 90 permanent residents with no mains electricity or running water, solar, wind and generators fill the gap, and the 1881 lighthouse is the only building wired to the grid; access schedules are on Turismo Rocha . The payoff is one of South America’s largest sea lion colonies, visible from the lighthouse rocks with no tour boat needed.

Day 7: Punta del Diablo, a fishing village that stayed one, then home

Continue up the coast toward Rocha department and Punta del Diablo, a former fishing village that kept its rustic edge instead of chasing Punta del Este’s polish, now a low-key draw for surfers and backpackers rather than yacht owners. Santa Teresa National Park next door is free to enter, though the 18th-century Portuguese fortress inside charges a small separate fee, historically around 50 pesos (about 1.25 dollars, worth confirming on arrival since it is an old figure). Direct buses run from towns along this stretch back to Montevideo’s Tres Cruces terminal without a full backtrack through every earlier stop, so budget a genuine travel day rather than a rushed morning bus. Fly out of Carrasco the next morning, and leave room in the suitcase for a thermos and gourd, mate is the one souvenir that actually gets used once you are home.

Do you need a rental car for Cabo Polonio?

No, and you cannot use one even if you have one. Private cars are banned inside the national park; visitors park at a highway-side lot on Ruta 10 (about 270 pesos a day) and take a mandatory 4x4 truck through the dunes instead, roughly 30 minutes each way. A rental car still earns its keep for the rest of the coast, from Punta del Este through Jose Ignacio.

Can tourists legally buy cannabis in Uruguay?

No. Uruguay was the first country to fully legalize cannabis nationally, in 2013, but access has always run through three resident-only channels: registered home growing, cannabis clubs, and pharmacy sales for citizens and permanent residents. Tourists cannot legally buy it through any of them, regardless of how liberal the country’s reputation is otherwise.

Uruguay 7 day itinerary at a glance

Day Focus Travel time Cost (USD, approx)
1 Montevideo, Ciudad Vieja and Mercado del Puerto 20 to 40 min from Carrasco airport 90 to 120
2 Colonia del Sacramento, old town and lighthouse Bus about 2h45 to 2h50 from Tres Cruces 100 to 130
3 Canelones wine country, Tannat and orange wine Bus back to Montevideo (2h45), then 30 to 45 min to Canelones 180 to 220
4 Punta del Este and Casapueblo Bus or car about 2h to 2h15 from Montevideo 120 to 160
5 Jose Ignacio, beaches and whale watching in season About 45 min from Punta del Este 150 to 200
6 Cabo Polonio, dunes, sea lions and no electricity Roughly 2h45 to 4h30 by road, plus a 30 min 4x4 transfer 80 to 110
7 Punta del Diablo and Santa Teresa National Park A shorter hop up the coast, then a longer direct bus back to Montevideo 70 to 100

Costs assume mid-range stays outside Cabo Polonio, where cash-only cabins run cheaper; flights and the rental car itself are extra.

Withdraw pesos before Cabo Polonio and keep them for Punta del Diablo too. Both towns lean cash-only, and the ATMs thin out fast once you leave Montevideo’s orbit.