Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world. Not the most famous – though it’s certainly among them – but the largest by area: approximately 400 acres enclosed by the outer wall and 5.5-kilometre moat, built by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. The five central towers represent the five peaks of Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain at the centre of Hindu cosmology. The moat represents the cosmic ocean surrounding it.

Most visitors focus entirely on these five towers and miss the reason the temple is considered the highest achievement of Khmer architecture: the continuous bas-relief that runs for 800 metres around the inner gallery at eye level, depicting 1,500 individual figures in scenes from Hindu mythology and Suryavarman II’s own military campaigns. These panels were carved by artists who spent years on each section, and they reward close inspection rather than quick walking.

What to Actually See

Sunrise at Angkor Wat from the western reflection pool is the most photographed image in Cambodia. Arrive by 5am for good positions. The light changes quickly and the optimal colour typically lasts about 20 minutes. After sunrise, go directly inside before the tour groups arrive.

The Gallery of Bas-Reliefs (inner level, ground floor): start at the western gallery and work clockwise. The Battle of Kurukshetra (south gallery west section) and the Army of Suryavarman II (south gallery east section) are the most detailed. The Churning of the Sea of Milk (east gallery, south section) has 92 asuras and 88 devas pulling the cosmic serpent to produce the elixir of immortality – the scale and the individual characterisation are extraordinary.

Bayon Temple, 1.5 kilometres north within Angkor Thom’s walled city: 54 towers, each bearing four faces of Avalokiteshvara (or possibly a deified Jayavarman VII – the debate continues). Best in early morning or late afternoon when the faces emerge from shadow.

Banteay Srei, 25 kilometres north: 10th-century pink sandstone temple with the finest decorative carving in the entire archaeological park. Less visited, more intimate, and the quality of the stone carving is arguably finer than Angkor Wat’s main relief work.

Practical Notes

Three-day passes ($72 USD) are the minimum for meaningful exploration. Tickets are available only at the Angkor Enterprise ticket office. Dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees for all temple visits.

Siem Reap (8 kilometres south) is the base; tuk-tuks handle all transportation for $15-20 per day. December through February is optimal: dry, cooler, clear. March through May is very hot. Rainy season (June through October) is lush and quieter but muddy.

A knowledgeable guide for at least Angkor Wat and Bayon significantly improves the experience; the iconographic programme is dense and the historical context – the shift from Hindu to Buddhist use, the layers of different period additions – requires explanation.