The Atomium: Belgium’s Most Eccentric Monument and Why It Works

The Atomium was built for the 1958 World’s Fair in Brussels, designed by engineer André Waterkeyn to represent an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times. Nine steel spheres connected by tubes, 102 metres tall, the central vertical tube containing escalators and lifts connecting the spheres. It was supposed to be temporary, a demonstration piece for a six-month exposition, but Brussels liked it enough to keep it. The original structure was restored and modernised in 2006 with new cladding.

The context for understanding the Atomium is 1958 specifically. The Second World War had ended 13 years earlier. The discovery of penicillin, the early space age, and the potential of nuclear energy for peaceful purposes were all recent. The World’s Fair theme was “A World View, A New Humanism.” Belgium chose to represent hope in the form of a molecule, which is the kind of decision that can only be explained by the specific optimism of that decade. The Cold War and Sputnik and the Soviets demonstrating nuclear capability, all of this is the backdrop for a structure that says: science is good, the future is bright, look at this 102-metre iron crystal.

Visiting the Atomium

The nine spheres are connected by escalators and corridors, with exhibitions in several of them covering the 1958 Expo, atomic science, Belgian design, and temporary art installations. The top sphere has panoramic views over Brussels extending to 25km on clear days. Adult tickets are currently around €16; book at atomium.be to guarantee entry on busy days.

The escalators connecting the spheres are the originals from 1958, which makes them among the longest escalators in Europe (running through the tubes connecting the spheres) and also gives the interior a genuine mid-century feel that a full renovation would have erased. The original designers built them to demonstrate that escalators could work in angled, non-vertical configurations.

Combining with Mini-Europe

Mini-Europe, adjacent to the Atomium in Heysel Park, has 350 scale reproductions of European landmarks at 1:25 scale. It is for children and for adults who liked that kind of thing when they were children. The Eiffel Tower is knee-high. Big Ben is slightly taller. Combined tickets with the Atomium are available and save money.

Brussels Beyond the Atomium

The Atomium is 5km from central Brussels. The Grand Place (UNESCO World Heritage, one of the finest baroque public squares in Europe) is the centre of the tourist circuit. The Magritte Museum (dedicated to René Magritte, whose painting career was mostly spent in Brussels and whose work the city claims proudly) is genuinely excellent for anyone with any interest in surrealism.

The best Belgian food in Brussels is not near the tourist sites. Comme Chez Soi is the Michelin two-star benchmark for Belgian haute cuisine. For more accessible eating: moules-frites at any brasserie on the south side of the Grand Place and Belgian waffles from a street vendor are both reliable and significantly better than their tourist-district versions suggest.

Brussels has been under-appreciated as a destination for years because of the EU and NATO institutional reputation. The city itself is architecturally interesting, culturally engaged, and has a food and beer culture that rewards serious attention.

Getting to the Atomium: Metro lines 2 and 6 to Heysel station, then a short walk.