Beijing
Beijing: The Big Three and What to Do After
Beijing’s three main attractions, the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, and the Temple of Heaven, can be covered in three days. The city itself rewards a much longer visit. The hutong neighbourhoods, the Summer Palace, the Temple of Earth, the 798 Art District, and the food alone justify adding another three days. What follows is a guide that tries to address both parts.
The Forbidden City
Construction began in 1406; the palace held the imperial court of China from 1420 to 1912, through the Ming and Qing dynasties. It covers 180 acres with nearly 1,000 buildings. The current name (Palace Museum) is more accurate than “Forbidden City” since it’s been open to the public since 1925.
Booking online through the official website (pm.com.cn) is now mandatory, no walk-up tickets. The daily visitor cap is 80,000 (reduced from a previous 180,000). Book at least a day ahead for peak season (April-October). The northern entrance (Shenwu Gate) is less crowded than the south; arriving through the Meridian Gate and exiting through the north is the standard route.
The Great Wall
Not a single structure but a series of walls and fortifications built across different dynasties. The section most visitors see is the Ming dynasty wall (14th-17th centuries). The section you choose matters considerably:
Mutianyu (90 minutes from Beijing) is the most popular choice for independent visitors after Badaling, with restored wall, cable car access, and fewer crowds than Badaling. Jiankou (2.5 hours from Beijing) is unrestored and dramatic, popular with photographers, not for casual visitors. Simatai is more remote and requires advance tickets but offers night viewing.
Badaling has the most infrastructure and the most crowds; Mutianyu is a better experience for most first-time visitors.
The Temple of Heaven
Built in 1420 and used by emperors for annual ceremonies seeking good harvests, the Temple of Heaven complex is one of the most important religious sites in China. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (circular, triple-roofed, built without a single nail) is the main structure. Entry around 35 yuan for the park, with additional fees for each building.
Come in the early morning when the park fills with local residents doing tai chi, playing music, practising calligraphy with water brushes on the stone paths, and flying kites. This is one of the more genuinely local experiences available to visitors in Beijing.
The Hutongs
The traditional lane-and-courtyard neighbourhoods of Beijing. The area around Nanluoguxiang, Gulou, and the lakes (Houhai and Shichahai) has the most concentrated hutong experience. Hire a bicycle or walk; rickshaw tours exist but you cover more on your own.
Peking Duck
Peking duck has been made in Beijing since the imperial court of the Yuan dynasty in the 14th century. The duck is roasted in a hung oven over fruitwood to produce crispy skin and tender meat; served with thin pancakes, sweet bean sauce, cucumber, and spring onion. Quanjude (operating since 1864) and Da Dong are the most famous operators. Da Dong does a less fatty, more modern version; Quanjude is the traditional experience.
Getting Around
Beijing has an excellent metro network (under 5 yuan per journey). The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and the Temple of Heaven are all within easy metro reach. Didi (the Chinese ride-hailing app) is reliable for the hutong areas where the metro doesn’t penetrate.