Big Island, Hawaii

Kilauea volcano’s Episode 48 of the current eruption series began at 4:40am on June 1, 2026, with lava fountains reaching 200 metres and a plume rising 7,600 metres. It lasted 9 hours. This eruption has now produced more fountaining episodes than any episodic eruption ever recorded, including the decades-long Pu’u’O’o eruption that reshaped the island’s southeast coast. Kilauea is episodically active in a way that previous visitors may remember as exceptional but is now simply its current mode. Check the USGS Kilauea page before visiting the park: when an episode is active, the viewing from the Uekahuna overlook can be extraordinary; between episodes, the glow from the caldera at night is still visible.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (open 24 hours, entry fee $35 per vehicle valid for 7 days) is the central reason to visit the Big Island over any other Hawaiian island. The Kilauea caldera is the main attraction, but the park covers 350,000 acres and contains lava tube systems, ancient petroglyph fields, and active lava flows depending on current conditions. The Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku) – a walk-through cave created when the outer crust of a lava flow cooled and hardened while the molten interior drained – is accessible without special equipment. The Kilauea Iki Trail descends into the solidified lava lake formed during a 1959 eruption that was among the highest fountaining events in recorded history, reaching 580 metres.

Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa

Mauna Kea at 4,205 metres is the world’s tallest mountain by base measurement (the base sits on the ocean floor, 6,000 metres below the summit). The summit hosts 13 telescopes representing multiple nations, and the observing conditions from here – minimal light pollution, thin and stable atmosphere above the marine layer – are among the best in the northern hemisphere for optical astronomy. The Visitor Information Station at 2,800 metres runs free stargazing programmes most evenings; the summit access road is unpaved and requires a 4WD vehicle.

Driving up to the Visitor Information Station at sunset, then back down after an hour of looking at the Milky Way with rangers’ telescopes, is one of the more unusual evenings available on any Hawaiian island. The altitude affects some visitors – spend time at the mid-level station before going higher.

The Two Coasts

The island’s geography reflects its volcanic age: the Kona side (west) is dry and sunny, with resort infrastructure along the Kohala coast, white sand beaches at Hapuna and Mauna Kea Beach, and the Kona coffee belt on Mauna Loa’s volcanic slopes producing distinctively flavoured beans from the mineral-rich soil. The Hilo side (east) receives 130+ inches of rain annually from trade winds and is lush, green, and significantly cheaper for accommodation. Akaka Falls (135 metres, accessible via a short loop trail) and Rainbow Falls are both within 15 minutes of Hilo.

Punaluu Black Sand Beach on the southeastern coast is volcanic – jet-black sand formed by lava meeting the ocean – and has Hawaiian green sea turtles (honu) resting on the beach regularly. Turtles are protected; maintain distance and do not disturb them.

Waipio Valley

Waipio on the island’s north coast is a steep-walled valley sacred in Hawaiian tradition as the ancient home of Hawaiian royalty. The road down is extremely steep (25% grade) and restricted to 4WD vehicles for residents and tours; most visitors view it from the overlook at the valley rim. The valley floor has taro fields, a black sand beach, and waterfall-fed streams. Guided tours in modified vehicles run from nearby Kukuihaele.

Practical Notes

Rent a car on the Big Island – public transit is inadequate for anything beyond Hilo. The island is large (twice the size of all other Hawaiian islands combined) and driving between the Kona coast and Hilo takes about 90 minutes around the south point of the island. For current Kilauea eruption status: USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website and the park rangers at the entry station are the definitive sources. The park is open regardless of eruption status, but conditions change rapidly.