Caernarfon

Roughly 80% of Caernarfon’s population are Welsh speakers – one of the highest proportions in Wales. Walking around the town, Welsh is the language you hear in shops, cafes, and between people on the street. This is not a performance for tourists; it’s the working language of the community. Caernarfon Castle, which Edward I built specifically to symbolise English domination over Wales, now sits in the middle of a town whose cultural identity remains defiantly Welsh. The irony is not lost on residents.

The castle (UNESCO World Heritage Site, managed by Cadw) was built from 1283 as part of Edward I’s campaign to consolidate control over Wales after defeating Llywelyn ap Gruffudd. The massive polygonal towers with their bands of different-coloured stone were deliberately modelled on the walls of Constantinople, which Edward had seen or heard described during the Crusades – he wanted the castle to project the same imperial authority. Entry runs around £12-15 for adults. The town walls of Caernarfon, connected to the castle, are among the best-preserved medieval town defences in Britain.

What to See

Caernarfon Castle: The Eagle Tower, the castle’s most distinctive structure, rises at the southwest corner and gives the best views over the Menai Strait toward Anglesey. The towers are climbable and connect via a wall walk. The Royal Welch Fusiliers Museum inside (included in admission) covers the regiment from 1689 to the present.

The Town Walls: Walking the medieval wall circuit takes about an hour. The walls connect to the castle at both ends and largely enclose the historic core of the town. Worth doing as a separate activity from the castle.

The Menai Strait and Bridge: Thomas Telford’s suspension bridge (1826) connecting Caernarfon to Anglesey is visible from the castle waterfront. The drive or walk to the bridge is 12 kilometres but the view of the bridge from the Anglesey side is one of the better engineering views in Wales.

Snowdonia

Caernarfon is 20 minutes from the base of Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa, 1,085 metres, the highest mountain in Wales). The Snowdon Mountain Railway from Llanberis (about 10 kilometres from Caernarfon) has been running since 1896 and provides the most accessible route to the summit.

Eating and Staying

The Black Boy Inn on Northgate Street has occupied the same site since the 16th century and is the town’s most atmospheric pub, serving Welsh lamb, fresh fish, and local ales.

Caernarfon is on the A487 coastal road in northwest Wales. Nearest railway station is Bangor (12 kilometres), with connections from Chester (1 hour 15 minutes) and Cardiff (3.5 hours). Buses run regularly between Bangor and Caernarfon.