Capitol Hill, Washington D.C.: Where History Is Still Operating

Three of the most consequential buildings in American government sit within a five-minute walk of each other on Capitol Hill, and all three are open to the public, largely for free. That this is even possible, that you can walk into the building where laws are debated, the court where constitutional cases are heard, and the library holding a draft of the Gettysburg Address in Lincoln’s own handwriting, is something worth noting before you start complaining about the TSA-style security lines.

The United States Capitol

The dome of the Capitol is the single most recognisable symbol of American democracy, and the building beneath it is more interesting than the exterior photographs suggest. Free guided tours run through the Capitol Visitor Center (capitol.gov) or can be arranged through your member of Congress. They cover the Rotunda (90 feet in diameter, painted ceiling by Constantino Brumidi completed in 1865), the National Statuary Hall where each state contributes two statues of notable Americans, the Old Supreme Court Chamber where landmark constitutional decisions were made before the Court got its own building, and the Crypt beneath the Rotunda where Washington’s tomb was originally intended to be placed before his estate objected.

When Congress is in session, you can observe debate from the public galleries of the House of Commons or House of Lords, though this requires a separate gallery pass obtained from your member of Congress’s office. The quality of debate in the galleries is highly variable, but the experience of watching American lawmaking in process, in the actual chamber, is better than it sounds on paper.

Reserve your Capitol tour well in advance. Walk-in availability exists but is limited. TSA security screening is required.

Library of Congress

The Thomas Jefferson Building is the most architecturally extraordinary public building in Washington: a Beaux-Arts exterior built between 1890 and 1897 that opens into an interior of marble columns, ornate mosaics, and a Main Reading Room with a 160-foot domed ceiling ringed by 16 female figures representing fields of human knowledge. The building was conceived as a monument to learning as much as a repository for books, and it succeeds.

The library holds the world’s largest collection of books and recorded knowledge and its most precious items include an original draft of the Gettysburg Address in Lincoln’s handwriting, a Gutenberg Bible, and the copyright deposits that have made it the de facto archive of American cultural production. Exhibition galleries on the ground floor are free and open to the public without reservation. The building is closed Mondays.

The Supreme Court

The Supreme Court Building, completed in 1935, carries the inscription “Equal Justice Under Law” above its entrance, a phrase that does real work given what the building has contained over the decades. Self-guided tours are free and accessible when the Court is not in session. When the Court is hearing oral arguments (October through June), public seating is available on a first-come basis for brief observations. The experience of sitting in the chamber where constitutional cases are argued is worth the queue if you have flexibility in your schedule.

Where to Eat

Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street (about 15 minutes north by Metro) has been serving chili dogs and half-smokes since 1958 and survived the 1968 riots that destroyed much of the surrounding neighbourhood. It is the most historically significant fast food in the city, and the half-smoke with chili sauce is specifically good.

The Dubliner at 4 F Street NE is a reliable pub within easy walking distance of the Capitol, frequented by congressional staffers who actually know what’s happening in the buildings nearby. Good for a pint and decent pub food.

For a more serious meal, the neighbourhood around Eastern Market on 7th Street SE has developed a solid restaurant scene. Ambar on 7th Street serves Balkan small plates that are better than that description suggests.

Where to Stay

The Hotel George at 15 E Street NW, steps from the Capitol, is a boutique option with genuine style and a location that makes it convenient for early morning access to the major buildings. Doubles from around $200.

Hyatt Regency Washington on Capitol Hill is larger, more corporate, and reliably comfortable. Budget-conscious visitors can find reasonable rooms 10-15 minutes away by Metro in neighborhoods like Columbia Heights or NoMa, where rates are considerably lower and the food options are better.

Practical Notes

The Capitol, Library of Congress, and Supreme Court form a logical walking circuit. The Library closes Mondays. The Supreme Court is most accessible when the Court is not in session. Add the Folger Shakespeare Library at 201 E Capitol Street SE, which holds the largest Shakespeare collection in the world in an Art Deco building with an intimate Elizabethan theatre, for a full day on the Hill.

The National Mall extends west from the Capitol, giving you free access to the Smithsonian museums (all free, all extraordinary) and the major monuments. Build in half a day for the museums; the Air and Space Museum and the National Museum of Natural History are both legitimately excellent, not merely impressive.