Capri: Expensive, Beautiful, Worth the Calculation

Capri is the island in the Bay of Naples that has been attracting wealthy visitors since Roman emperors made it their retreat. Tiberius ruled the empire from here for the last decade of his life, building 12 villas on the island and receiving ambassadors and Senate delegations on what would otherwise have been a provincial fishing rock. The combination of the limestone geology, the sea colour, and the mild climate made it specifically appealing then and still does.

The island is expensive. The ferry from Sorrento (25-35 minutes, most direct route) or Naples (45-60 minutes) costs €20-25 return. Once on the island, everything is priced for a clientele willing to pay boutique margins. A coffee at the Piazzetta will cost three times what it costs in Naples, and nobody apologises for this. If the pricing offends you, consider the Amalfi coast instead; if you accept it, Capri delivers on the visual promise consistently.

The Faraglioni

Three limestone sea stacks off the island’s southeastern coast, rising to 109 metres, have become the island’s visual signature. The central stack (Faraglione di Mezzo) has a natural arch that boats pass through - considered good luck by tradition and still offered on boat tours at extra cost. The stacks are best seen from the sea; the boat circuit of the island takes about 90 minutes and gives views of the sea caves and coastline not visible from land. Rent a small boat from Marina Piccola or join one of the organised tours from Marina Grande.

The Blue Grotto

The Grotta Azzurra on the northern coast is covered in detail in the Blue Grotto post on this site. Short version: extraordinary natural phenomenon, frequently closed due to weather conditions, genuinely worth seeing when accessible. Check conditions before planning around it.

Anacapri and Monte Solaro

Anacapri, the upper town at 365 metres, has a different character from Capri town - quieter, less boutique-saturated, with the Church of San Michele containing a majolica tile floor depicting the Garden of Eden. The chairlift from Anacapri to the summit of Monte Solaro (589 metres) runs in 12 minutes and gives a panorama extending from Vesuvius to the Sorrentine Peninsula and south toward the Calabrian coast on clear days. There is a bar at the top. This is one of the better views available from a sitting position anywhere in southern Italy.

Villa San Michele

The Swedish physician Axel Munthe bought ruins on the site of one of Tiberius’s villas in 1887 and built himself a house surrounded by gardens and loggia, filled with Roman fragments he collected across decades of practice in Naples and Rome. He wrote about it in The Story of San Michele, one of the best-selling books of the 20th century. The garden is open to visitors (entry around €8-10) and the views over the north coast toward the mainland are exceptional.

Eating and Getting There

For food: avoid the Piazzetta area restaurants if you’re eating a full meal; the prices are for the view. The Marina Piccola has more reasonable fish restaurants for lunch; Da Luigi by the water is reliable. The Piazzetta is worth one drink in the evening for the social spectacle of the place - it is genuinely a specific experience even at the premium.

Ferry connections from Sorrento run frequently year-round; Naples connections are more frequent but take longer. Sorrento makes a better base than Naples for multiple days on the islands. On Capri itself, buses connect the two funiculars (to Capri town and Anacapri) efficiently; taxis are very expensive. The island is small enough to walk between most points if you have time.