Casino de Monte-Carlo: The Building Is Reason Enough

Most visitors to the Casino de Monte-Carlo don’t gamble. They pay the entrance fee (currently €17 for the European gaming rooms; passport required; no one under 18), walk through Charles Garnier’s 1863 Belle Epoque interior, stand in the atrium under the stained glass and marble columns, look around at the painted ceilings, and leave having had the experience without losing money at roulette. This is entirely valid. The building is one of the finest examples of Belle Epoque architecture in Europe. Garnier is more famous for the Paris Opera; this came seven years before it and covers similar theatrical-luxury ground.

The slot machine halls are free to enter and lead directly into the main building without any admission fee. The gaming rooms proper require the passport check and the entrance fee. The Salles Privées (private rooms) require a separate ticket on top of that.

The Place du Casino

The square outside the casino is as much of the attraction as the casino itself. The formal gardens between the casino and the port are public and free. The Hôtel de Paris, open since 1866 and directly adjacent to the casino, has a lobby and bar accessible to non-guests; the lobby is worth 15 minutes and the Cellars of the Hôtel de Paris (which extend under the Place du Casino) are the most extensive wine cellar in Monaco, occasionally open for tours.

The Grand Prix circuit runs through the streets around the casino each May; even outside race season, walking the route from the casino hairpin through the tunnel section to the chicane by the swimming pool complex is a useful exercise in understanding why this is considered the most demanding circuit in Formula One.

Around Monaco

The Oceanographic Museum, built into the face of the Rock of Monaco and founded by Prince Albert I in 1906, has one of Europe’s most respected marine science collections. The basement aquarium is the main draw, with sharks, rays, and a substantial coral reef tank.

The Prince’s Palace on the Rock has the Grimaldi family’s Changing of the Guard at 11:55am daily, worth timing a visit around. Parts of the State Apartments open to the public in summer.

Jardin Exotique, perched on a cliff to the west, holds one of Europe’s largest collections of cacti and succulents along with the best views over Monaco and the coastline.

Port Hercule below the casino holds private yachts of a scale that makes most boats look like toys. A walk along the quay is useful context for understanding the concentration of wealth in this 2 sq km principality.

Eating

Le Grill on the 8th floor of the Hotel de Paris has a retractable roof and Mediterranean views alongside grilled meats and French cooking. Café de Paris directly on the Place du Casino has been serving since 1882 and the terrace is one of the better spots to watch the square’s traffic. For something less formal, La Rascasse at the foot of the circuit near the swimming pool complex is a local institution with straightforward food and good atmosphere on warm evenings.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Nice Côte d’Azur (NCE), 22km west. Train from Nice city centre to Monaco-Monte-Carlo station takes 20-30 minutes and runs frequently. The helicopter transfer (Monacair, from Nice airport to Monaco Heliport, 7 minutes) costs around €160-200 per person and is worth considering once just for the coastal view.