Cathedral of Seville: The Largest Gothic Cathedral in the World

The canons of Seville who decided in 1401 to build a cathedral on the site of the old Almohad mosque reportedly said: “Let us build a church so large that those who see it finished will think we were mad.” They were right on at least one count. The Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Sede is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world by volume, measuring 140 metres long and 76 metres wide, with a main nave that reaches 42 metres high. Construction began on the demolished mosque site and was largely complete by the early 16th century. The Giralda tower, the old mosque minaret, was kept and has been part of the cathedral complex ever since.

The Giralda Tower

The Giralda was built as the minaret of the Almohad mosque in the late 12th century, modelled on the Koutoubia mosque in Marrakech. When the Reconquista brought Seville under Castilian rule in 1248, the mosque became a church and the minaret became a bell tower, with a Renaissance-style upper section and the bronze weathervane figure El Giraldillo added in the 16th century.

Climbing the Giralda is essential and surprisingly easy. Instead of stairs, the tower has 35 interlocking ramps wide enough for two horsemen to pass abreast. Alfonso X reportedly rode to the top on horseback. At 104 metres, the summit gives panoramic views across Seville’s rooftops, the Alcazar gardens, and the Guadalquivir. Allow 20-30 minutes for ascent and descent.

The Columbus Question

Inside the cathedral, the elaborate 19th-century tomb of Christopher Columbus is carried on the shoulders of four heralds representing the kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Aragon, and Navarre. Columbus died in Valladolid in 1506 and his remains have had a complicated journey: to Santo Domingo, then Cuba, then back to Seville following Cuban independence in 1898. Genetic studies published in 2006 compared DNA from the Seville remains with DNA from Columbus’s son Hernando and found the results consistent with a familial relationship. The Dominican Republic still disputes the claim, insisting Columbus never left Santo Domingo. Regardless, this is an extraordinary monument in an extraordinary setting.

Inside the Cathedral

The Main Altarpiece (Retablo Mayor) is the largest gilded altar in the world, depicting 45 scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary in carved and gilded wood. It took nearly 100 years to complete (1482 to 1564) and the scale of it, filling the entire east wall of the choir, is genuinely staggering.

The Treasury (Sacristia Mayor) holds paintings by Zurbarán, Murillo, and Goya alongside historic liturgical objects. The Chapter House (Sala Capitular) is an elliptical Renaissance room with a Murillo ceiling that most visitors don’t find because they’re still processing the main nave.

The Patio de los Naranjos, the courtyard that served as the mosque’s ablutions space, is accessible without entering the cathedral and is a good free option: rows of orange trees, a Moorish fountain, and considerably fewer tourists than inside.

Practical Details

Book tickets online at the cathedral’s website in advance, particularly for spring and summer. Monday mornings have free admission for EU citizens. Dress requirements are enforced: shoulders and knees must be covered. The audio guide is worth the extra cost for the artwork identification alone.

Around the Cathedral

The Real Alcazar directly south is one of the oldest royal palaces still in use in Europe, with Mudejar architecture so intricate you start questioning what human patience is capable of. It is a UNESCO site along with the cathedral and the Archive of the Indies. A combined visit fills a full day without forcing anything.

The Santa Cruz neighbourhood, the old Jewish quarter, begins immediately east of the cathedral with narrow streets, tiled facades, and flower-hung balconies. Walk slowly. The bars on Calle Rodrigo Caro (Bodega Santa Cruz, also known as Las Columnas) have been feeding people tapas and wine for decades and remain inexpensive by the standards of the surrounding tourist zone.

Seville is one of the primary cities for flamenco. Tablaos in the historic centre offer evening performances; book ahead.