Choquequirao: The Inca Citadel Nobody Gets To

Choquequirao is an Inca archaeological site comparable in scale to Machu Picchu, set on a ridge at 3,033 metres above the Apurímac River canyon in southern Peru. It sees around 30 visitors per day. Machu Picchu sees 4,000-5,000. The difference is entirely explained by access — there is currently no road to Choquequirao.

A cable car project has been planned for years (the Peruvian government approved it; the environmental review process and funding complications have delayed it repeatedly). If and when it opens, the site will be as crowded as Machu Picchu. Until then, it requires walking in.

The Trek

The standard approach is from Cachora (3,000 metres), a small agricultural village accessible by road from Cusco (about 4 hours by bus or hired car via Abancay). From Cachora, the trail descends 1,500 metres to the Apurímac River at the canyon floor, then climbs back up 1,500 metres to the citadel. This section takes two days. Return the same way or continue on an extended circuit to Machu Picchu (4-7 additional days, depending on route).

The standard 4-day/3-night route: Day 1 Cachora to Chiquisca camp (campsite, 2,900m, 8km). Day 2 descent to river and climb to Marampata (2,850m, 9km — the hard day, 2,000m vertical total). Day 3 Marampata to Choquequirao and back (3,000m, 8km round trip). Day 4 return to Cachora. This is physically demanding. The trail is continuous steep grade with no shortcuts. Heat at canyon-bottom section is significant. Anyone who doesn’t regularly hike should train specifically for this.

The Site

Choquequirao was likely a royal estate of the Inca Tupa Yupanqui, built in the late 15th century. It covers about 1,800 acres; only around 30-40% has been excavated. The terracing system (andenes) descends in long flights down the steep canyon walls. The main platform (upper plaza) has ceremonial buildings, residential quarters, and a distinctive set of terraces decorated with white stone llama figures — unique to this site.

The setting — a ridge flanked by two stream canyons, surrounded by cloud forest, with the snow peaks of Padreyoc and Capac Urqu visible in clear weather — is as dramatic as anything in Peru.

Condors ride the thermals over the Apurímac gorge. You will almost certainly see them.

Logistics

Guides: Not legally required for Choquequirao, though recommended for the first visit. Arrieros (muleteer guides with pack animals) are available in Cachora and carry camping gear for an additional fee (~$15-25/day per mule). Many trekkers use a combination: hire an arrieros for gear, navigate independently.

Camping: Campsites at Chiquisca, Marampata, and at the site itself (basic facilities at each, cooking required). Bring a tent, sleeping bag rated to 0°C minimum, water purification, and food supplies from Cusco or Abancay.

Permits: No permit required as of 2024 (unlike Inca Trail to Machu Picchu). Entrance fee at the site is around S/80 (approximately $20). Verify current regulations before departing.

Best time: May-October (dry season). June-August is coolest and best for trail conditions. November-April has rain; the trail becomes slippery and crossings dangerous.

Cusco as Base

Most people start from Cusco (CUZ airport, 3h50min from Lima). The drive to Cachora is 4 hours. An overnight in Cusco is essential for altitude acclimatisation — ascending directly from sea level to 3,400m and starting a steep trek the next day is a reliable way to ensure a miserable experience. Two full days in Cusco before the hike is better.