Delhi: Eight Cities in One, and Why That Makes It Difficult and Irreplaceable

Historians count seven or eight successive cities on the Delhi plain, each built over or next to the last, which means the urban geography is not so much a city as an archaeological argument conducted at enormous scale across 1,500 square kilometres. The Mughal Red Fort and the medieval Qutub Minar are 15 kilometres apart and represent different civilisations entirely. Chandni Chowk’s bazaars operate much as they did in the 17th century; a few kilometres south, the glass towers of Gurugram could be any East Asian business district. Holding this together requires a mental model more flexible than “capital city.”

For first-time visitors, the most honest advice is this: pick one or two areas per day, accept that crossing the city during peak hours takes longer than any map suggests, and eat everything.

What to See

Red Fort

Built in 1648 by Shah Jahan and closed on Mondays, the Red Fort (Lal Qila) is the most complete surviving example of Mughal imperial architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sandstone and marble complex housed the Mughal court until 1857. Entry for foreign visitors costs around 950 rupees; children under 15 enter free. Hours are 9:30 am to 4:30 pm.

The fort is best approached from the Lahori Gate side. The Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audiences) and the Rang Mahal (Palace of Colours) are the principal interior buildings worth time. The evening sound-and-light show runs separately from the daytime visit and covers the fort’s history in about an hour; it operates most evenings and requires a separate ticket.

Qutub Minar

The Qutub Minar in Mehrauli is 72.5 metres of tapering red sandstone, built starting in 1193 as the minaret of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, the first mosque built in India after the Islamic conquest of Delhi. It is the tallest brick minaret in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 7:00 am to 5:00 pm; foreign visitors pay around 600 rupees. The Iron Pillar within the complex, a 7-metre column of wrought iron from the 4th-5th century CE that has not rusted in over 1,600 years, is a piece of early Indian metallurgical history that receives far less attention than it deserves.

Humayun’s Tomb

Completed in 1572, Humayun’s Tomb is the first garden-tomb in the Indian subcontinent and the direct architectural predecessor of the Taj Mahal, which came 70 years later. The symmetrical layout, the central dome over the burial chamber, and the surrounding char bagh (four-part garden) were all innovations that subsequent Mughal architects refined. Entry is around 600 rupees for foreigners, open daily 6:00 am to 6:00 pm.

Visiting Humayun’s Tomb before the Taj Mahal (if that’s your itinerary) is the more intellectually useful sequence; the Taj makes more sense as a culmination than as an introduction.

Old Delhi and Chandni Chowk

The streets radiating from Chandni Chowk, the 17th-century market thoroughfare that Shah Jahan built as part of his new capital, function as a largely intact pre-industrial trading district. Specific lanes specialize in spices, textiles, hardware, silver, and street food with a specificity that reflects centuries of trading geography. Khari Baoli, off the western end of Chandni Chowk, is Asia’s largest wholesale spice market and worth the sensory experience of walking through it, though it operates at wholesale scale and is not a tourist attraction in the conventional sense.

The Jama Masjid, a short walk from Chandni Chowk, is the largest mosque in India and was built by Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656. Entry is free; a small charge applies for taking a camera. Dress code (covered arms and legs) is enforced.

Lodhi Garden

An underused resource in the centre of New Delhi. The park contains Mughal-era tombs and gardens spread over 90 acres and is a useful counterpoint to the monument-heavy itinerary that most guides prescribe. Early mornings see locals exercising, birds in the trees (the park is a significant birding site), and almost no tour groups. Entry is free.

Where to Eat

Karim’s (16 Jama Masjid, Old Delhi) has operated since 1913 and serves Mughlai dishes, particularly mutton preparations, that represent an unbroken culinary tradition from the Mughal court cooks who founded it. The nihari (slow-cooked meat stew) and seekh kebabs are the standard orders. No frills, cash only, perpetually crowded.

Moti Mahal (Daryaganj) is claimed, with reasonable evidence, to be the origin of butter chicken and dal makhani, both invented here in the 1950s by Kundan Lal Gujral. American presidents and Indian prime ministers have eaten here; the menu has not changed substantially.

Bukhara (ITC Maurya Hotel) has barely altered its menu in four decades. The dal Bukhara, black lentils simmered for 18 hours, is the dish that defines the restaurant. It is expensive by Indian standards, and the experience is slightly formal, but the food quality justifies the price for a single meal on a trip to Delhi.

Indian Accent (The Lodhi Hotel) is consistently ranked among the finest restaurants in India. Chef Manish Mehrotra’s cooking reinterprets Indian ingredients through international techniques; the tasting menu is the standard approach for a first visit. Booking several weeks ahead is typically necessary. The price point is equivalent to a good European fine dining restaurant.

For street food, Paranthe Wali Gali (Chandni Chowk) is a lane specialising in stuffed parathas, operating since the 19th century. The prices are negligible; the quality is good. The spice market area nearby has vendors selling chaat (savoury snacks with tamarind and yogurt dressing) that are among the better street food options in Old Delhi.

Where to Stay

Delhi’s hotel landscape splits roughly between Lutyens’ Delhi (the planned colonial-era capital around Connaught Place and the government quarter), the newer South Delhi areas, and Old Delhi near the Mughal monuments.

The Lodhi (Lodhi Road) and The Imperial (Janpath) represent the most established luxury options in central Delhi. The Imperial’s 1930s architecture and art deco interiors make it the more distinctive property.

Hotel Janpath (Janpath Road) is a reliable mid-range property in a central location within walking distance of Connaught Place and the National Museum.

For budget accommodation, the Paharganj neighbourhood near New Delhi Railway Station has a dense concentration of guesthouses aimed at backpackers. Standards vary enormously; reading recent reviews before booking is more important here than almost anywhere else in Delhi.

Getting Around

The Delhi Metro is excellent and covers most tourist areas. The Yellow Line connects Chandni Chowk (for Old Delhi), Connaught Place, and points south. The Violet Line serves Kashmere Gate, Jangpuri, and Escorts Mujesar. Phase 4 expansion is underway with 45 new stations; several sections are expected to open by late 2026. Tokens are inexpensive; a tourist day pass is available and usually cost-effective for multiple journeys.

Auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws work for short distances in areas the metro doesn’t directly serve, particularly in Old Delhi. Agreeing a price before getting in (or insisting on the meter) is non-negotiable. App-based services (Ola, Uber) operate across the city and are significantly less stressful for airport transfers and cross-city journeys.

Indira Gandhi International Airport connects to the city centre via the Airport Express Metro line in about 20 minutes. The journey to New Delhi station is approximately 20-25 minutes depending on traffic and metro timing.

Practical Tips

Air quality: Delhi’s air quality varies seasonally and is often severe from October to February. Visitors with respiratory sensitivities should check AQI forecasts before travelling and consider this in their timing.

Heat: April through June brings extreme heat, with temperatures regularly exceeding 40 degrees Celsius. October through March is the most comfortable period for outdoor sightseeing.

Dress: Conservative dress is required at religious sites (mosques, temples, gurudwaras). Carrying a lightweight scarf is useful for women navigating multiple sites in a day.

Tipping: Not mandatory but expected at restaurants; 10% is a reasonable standard at sit-down establishments.

Water: Drink bottled or filtered water. Most hotels provide a supply; carry a bottle when visiting monuments.

The monuments close at different times and are closed on different days; checking the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) website for current hours before visiting is worth doing, as schedules occasionally change. Red Fort is closed Mondays; Qutub Minar and Humayun’s Tomb are open daily. The most efficient itinerary for a two-day Delhi visit puts the Old Delhi sites (Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, Karim’s) on one day, and the southern Mughal sites (Qutub Minar, Humayun’s Tomb, Lodhi Garden) on the other.