Delhi: The City That Overwhelms, Then Rewards

Delhi is the capital, the largest metropolitan area in India, and for many travellers the first point of entry into the subcontinent. It’s genuinely chaotic, absorbing, and full of extraordinary things. It also has terrible traffic, poor air quality for much of the year, and a scale that makes navigation confusing unless you use the metro. Once you accept those conditions, it’s one of the most interesting cities in the world.

Old Delhi

The walled city of Shahjahanabad, built in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, is what most people call Old Delhi. The main landmarks here are clustered and walkable.

Jama Masjid, the great mosque built in 1656, is India’s largest mosque, with a courtyard that holds 25,000 worshippers. Entry is free; dress modestly, remove shoes before entering. The view from the south minaret (small fee) over the mosque and surrounding rooftops is excellent.

Chandni Chowk, the main bazaar street running west from the Red Fort, is dense, loud, and occasionally maddening. The best way to explore it is on foot in the morning before 11am, when the crowds build. The lanes running off Chandni Chowk each specialise in different goods: silver and jewellery, textiles, wedding supplies, spices. Karim’s is on one of these lanes (Gali Kababian, near the mosque) and has been serving Mughlai food since 1913. The nihari (slow-cooked mutton shank) and seekh kebabs are what you go for.

Red Fort (Lal Qila) is the main Mughal palace complex, built 1639-1648. The grounds are large; the restored palace apartments are worth seeing for the inlaid marble work. Entry around ₹600 for foreigners. Crowded in the afternoon; go as early as it opens (9:30am).

New Delhi

Lutyens’ Delhi, the colonial administrative centre built by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker from the 1910s, is entirely different from Old Delhi — wide boulevards, bungalows, and the grand imperial axis running from Rashtrapati Bhavan to India Gate.

India Gate is a memorial arch to the Indian soldiers who died in World War I. The surrounding parkland is a popular evening gathering space for residents.

Humayun’s Tomb (built 1570) is one of the finest Mughal monuments in India and the architectural prototype for the Taj Mahal. UNESCO-listed; far less crowded than Agra. Entry ₹600 for foreigners.

Qutub Minar, a 72-metre minaret from the 12th century in south Delhi, is the centrepiece of a complex of early Delhi Sultanate monuments. The ironwork of the Ashoka Pillar in the courtyard (entirely rust-free after 1,600 years) is one of those details that stops you.

Where to Eat

The food options in Delhi are enormous and excellent across all price ranges. Beyond Karim’s in Old Delhi:

Indian Accent (The Manor, Friends Colony) is consistently rated one of India’s best restaurants — creative interpretations of Indian cooking using modern techniques. Book weeks ahead. Bukhara at ITC Maurya (Chanakyapuri) is the landmark Northwest Frontier restaurant; the dal bukhara alone justifies the visit.

For something affordable and excellent, the parathas at Moolchand Parathe Wali in the Moolchand Flyover underpass are remarkable. The lanes behind Khan Market have several good South Indian places.

Where to Stay

The Lodhi in Golf Links is the finest hotel in Delhi. The Leela Palace near Khan Market is a close second. Mid-range: The Manor in Friends Colony is small, well-run, and near good restaurants. Bloomrooms near the metro offers clean, practical budget accommodation.

Getting Around

Delhi Metro is excellent, clean, cheap, and covers most major sites. Buy a tourist card (₹200 for a day pass). Avoid taxis on the street — use Uber or Ola from within the app. Auto-rickshaws are fine for short distances; agree a price before getting in or insist on the meter.

Best months: October to March. April through June is intensely hot (40°C+). July-September is monsoon, humid and wet.