The Duomo, Florence: What to Actually Do When You Get There

Florence’s cathedral complex stops people in their tracks. The striped marble facade of the Duomo itself, Giotto’s campanile beside it, the octagonal Baptistery across the piazza — it’s a lot to absorb all at once, especially if you arrive on foot from the narrow streets surrounding it. Most visitors stand there for about five minutes, take photos, and then wander off to find a gelateria. That’s fine. But there’s quite a bit more going on here if you plan ahead.

The Dome

Brunelleschi’s dome (completed 1436) is the main event, and climbing it is a genuinely good use of an hour. You access it from inside the cathedral, and the ascent includes a section where you walk along a gallery between the inner and outer shells — at that point you’re essentially inside the dome’s structure, looking down at the nave far below through a gap that feels much too small. The view from the lantern at the top takes in all of Florence and the hills beyond. There are 463 steps and no lift. The queue can be brutal in high season — go before 9am or book in advance online.

Entry to the dome is included in the combined Duomo Opera ticket (around €30), which also covers the campanile, the Baptistery, the crypt, and the Opera del Duomo museum.

The Baptistery

The bronze doors on the Baptistery’s east entrance (the “Gates of Paradise” by Ghiberti) are copies — the originals are in the museum and worth seeing up close. The mosaic ceiling inside the Baptistery is extraordinary, a 13th-century panorama of the Last Judgement that most people zoom past on their way to the Uffizi.

The Museum

The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo on Piazza del Duomo is underrated and rarely crowded. It holds the original Ghiberti doors, Michelangelo’s Pietà (the one he sculpted near the end of his life and tried to destroy), and Donatello’s Penitent Magdalene, which is frankly unsettling and brilliant. Budget at least 90 minutes.

Where to Eat

Trattoria Sostanza on Via del Porcellana is the most honest old-school Florentine restaurant in the city. The tortino di carciofi (artichoke omelette) is cooked in a ridiculous amount of butter and is exactly as good as it sounds. Cash only, arrive early, don’t expect menu variety.

For something faster, grab a schiacciata sandwich from Semel near the Bargello — a small place, good bread, sensible prices around €5-8.

Where to Stay

Hotel Brunelleschi is excellent if you want to be 90 seconds from the Baptistery and don’t mind paying for it. It’s built into a medieval tower and Byzantine church, which is a strange thing to say about a hotel but genuinely true.

For a mid-range option, Hotel Davanzati in the area south of the cathedral has well-sized rooms and staff who actually know the city.

Practical Notes

Florence is congested and getting more so. Avoid arriving by car. The train station (Santa Maria Novella) is a 12-minute walk from the Duomo. Book major museum tickets (Uffizi, Accademia) well in advance — walk-up queues for the David regularly run 90 minutes.

The Duomo itself is free to enter, but entry is limited and they turn people away if you’re not dressed appropriately (no bare shoulders or knees). Keep a scarf handy.