Eight Hells Kyushu

The Hells of Beppu: Volcanic Spectacle in Kyushu’s Onsen Capital

Beppu produces more hot spring output than anywhere in Japan except Yellowstone on a global scale, and the city sits on top of a volcanic system that has been roaring for over 1,200 years. What the locals once called jigoku, or “hells,” referred to the patches of boiling, steaming, and erupting earth that were genuinely dangerous to approach. Today those same spots are among the most visited attractions in Kyushu. The language is theatrical but not inaccurate: temperatures at the pools reach 98 degrees Celsius, the colours are chemically improbable, and one of them contains 80 crocodiles.

The Seven Hells

The tour formally covers seven springs, clustered in two groups: five in the Kannawa district (roughly 15 minutes from central Beppu) and two in Shibaseki, about 10 minutes further. A combo pass valid for two days costs 2,400 yen for adults and 1,200 yen for children, and covers all seven. Individual entry is 500 yen each, so the pass saves money if you visit five or more. All seven are open daily 8:00am to 5:00pm.

Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) is the most visited. The pool is a bright cobalt blue caused by dissolved iron sulphate, measures 200 metres in diameter, and sits at 98 degrees. It was created by a volcanic eruption around 1,200 years ago. The steam rising off the surface in cooler weather produces the most atmospheric photographs of any of the seven.

Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) is red, the colour coming from iron oxide in the clay. It claims to be Japan’s oldest designated hell with more than 1,300 years of recorded history. The red clay from this pool was historically used in medicinal ointments, and a souvenir version is still sold on site.

Oniyama Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell) houses around 80 crocodiles in a facility adjacent to the spring. The crocodile operation started in 1922, using the natural heat of the spring to maintain enclosure temperatures. It is strange and the crocodiles are very much real.

Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell) is the only geyser in the group and erupts every 30 to 40 minutes on a fairly reliable schedule. The spout is constrained by a stone arch to limit the height, but even contained it produces a dramatic jet.

Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell) is made up of six smaller pools within one site, including cobalt, red, and grey mud versions. It has a tasting area where you can try onsen-cooked items.

Oniishi Bozu Jigoku (Monk’s Head Hell) features a grey mud pool that produces slowly rising and bursting bubbles resembling the shaved heads of monks. The effect is genuinely unsettling to watch for any length of time.

Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell) is a milky white pool that turns clear fish-tank water at its edges, an effect caused by calcium silicate in the water. It has a small aquarium on site featuring tropical fish kept in spring-heated tanks.

Four of the seven (Umi, Chinoike, Kamado, and Oniishi Bozu) are officially designated Places of Scenic Beauty by the Japanese government.

The Jigoku Mushi Alternative

Most visitors to Beppu’s hells spend the day photographing springs and move on. The better use of time in Kannawa is to eat. The neighbourhood has a practice called jigoku mushi, or “hell steaming,” where the natural geothermal steam rising from the ground is channelled into cooking boxes. The Jigoku Mushi Workshop Kannawa allows visitors to buy raw ingredients, load them into steaming baskets, and cook them over natural steam. Tofu and vegetables cook in about 15 minutes; seafood takes a little longer. The food tastes clean and the cooking mechanism is something you will not encounter anywhere else. The workshop is open 9:00am to 8:00pm.

Where to Eat

Hyotan Onsen near central Beppu holds Michelin recognition and operates a restaurant on site, though it is primarily known as a public bathing facility rather than a restaurant destination. The Kannawa area has several small restaurants serving onsen-steamed and onsen-boiled dishes. Beppu-style torimeshi (chicken rice) is the regional food that receives the least attention from tourists and the most attention from locals; several lunch spots near the station serve it as a daily special.

Bungo beef from Oita Prefecture and fresh seafood from the surrounding waters appear in most mid-range and upscale restaurants. The coast is close enough that the fish is genuinely local.

Where to Stay

Ryokans in the Kannawa district place you walking distance from the hells and within reach of the jigoku mushi workshops. Kannawaen, a ryokan in the Kannawa onsen area, has private onsen in rooms and serves kaiseki dinners featuring local wagyu and Oita seafood. It sits very close to Umi Jigoku. For a less expensive option, guesthouses in Kannawa are functional and the location compensates for reduced amenities.

Most Beppu ryokans include breakfast and dinner, and dinner typically features local ingredients. Booking with meals included is standard and usually better value than eating separately.

Getting There

Beppu Station is on the JR Nippo Main Line and Kyudai Main Line. From Fukuoka (Hakata), the Sonic limited express takes roughly two hours; from Oita, about 15 minutes. From Tokyo or Osaka, the most practical approach is to fly to Oita Airport and take the airport bus to Beppu (about 45 minutes). The hells themselves are a 15 to 20-minute bus ride from Beppu Station on the Kannawa route. Taxis from the station cost around 1,200 to 1,500 yen.

Practical Tips

The combo pass is valid across two calendar days, so buying it late on your first afternoon and returning the next morning is a reasonable way to spread the visits without feeling rushed. The Kannawa and Shibaseki groups are far enough apart that you should allocate transport time between them; walking between all seven is not practical.

The hells are outdoors, and the steam means that any photography requires quick adjustments for condensation on lenses in cool weather. Bring a lens cloth. The most dramatic conditions are cold mornings when steam rises more visibly; summer visits are fine but the spectacle is less theatrical.

Beppu’s wider onsen scene extends far beyond the hell tour. The city has more than 2,000 individual hot spring sources and public bathing facilities scattered across eight distinct onsen districts. Spending a day at one of the public baths (separate from the hell tour) is what Beppu residents actually do, and the Suginoi Hotel’s large public onsen is open to day visitors for a modest entry fee with views over the bay.

Allow a full day for a thorough visit to all seven hells and lunch in Kannawa. A half day covers the highlights if you move briskly, but the jigoku mushi lunch is worth building time for.