The Gateway Arch, St. Louis: Engineering the West’s Symbol

The Gateway Arch is 192 metres tall, which makes it taller than the Washington Monument and the Statue of Liberty. The engineering required to build it between 1963 and 1965 was genuinely difficult: the two legs had to be constructed simultaneously and meet precisely at the apex, which required calculations at the limits of what was achievable with 1960s technology. The solution involved adjusting the legs’ angles daily as construction progressed. They met within 1mm of specification.

The arch commemorates American westward expansion from St. Louis, the frontier city through which most settlers passed. The monument sits on the Mississippi riverfront, visible from miles away, and its stainless steel surface reflects the light differently at every hour.

Getting to the Top

Tram cars — small capsule-shaped pods on a diagonal track — carry visitors 630 feet to the top inside each leg. The ride takes about 4 minutes each way. At the top, 16 small windows look north toward the Illinois bottomlands and south toward the older bridges and the river barges. The view is better in person than photographs suggest, partly because you can see the legs curving away below you, which gives the height a context that ground-level shots don’t provide.

The tram is a tight fit (5 adults per capsule) and claustrophobic. The observation deck at the top is narrow. Timed-entry tickets are required ($15 for adults, $12 children, plus the grounds entry fee) and should be booked in advance at archpark.nps.gov, particularly in summer.

The Museum

The museum under the arch (included in park entry) covers Lewis and Clark, Native American history of the region, and the westward expansion era. It’s well-done and not cursory — allow 90 minutes if you’re interested in the content.

Forest Park

St. Louis’s Forest Park, about 5km west of the arch, is genuinely remarkable: 5km² of urban parkland created for the 1904 World’s Fair, containing free museums (the St. Louis Art Museum, the Missouri History Museum, the St. Louis Science Center), the St. Louis Zoo (also free), and the Steinberg Skating Rink. It’s one of the great urban parks in the United States and consistently overlooked by visitors who spend their time at the arch.

Where to Eat

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard on Chippewa Street has been operating since 1929 and serves frozen custard in a thick consistency they call “concretes” (served upside down to demonstrate the thickness). It’s a St. Louis institution and genuinely good. Pappy’s Smokehouse in Midtown has barbecue with long lines and deserved reputation. For a proper dinner, Salt + Smoke in the University City area does excellent slow-smoked meats.

Where to Stay

The Drury Plaza Hotel adjacent to the arch is the most convenient option and includes the trademark Drury hot food evening reception. Hotel Zachary in Midtown is more interesting architecturally and has a good restaurant. Several reasonably priced chain hotels sit within walking distance of the arch along the waterfront.

Getting There

St. Louis Lambert Airport is 25km from downtown. Light rail (MetroLink) runs from the airport to downtown in about 30 minutes for $3.50. The arch is at the riverfront terminus. Driving into downtown is straightforward; parking in the riverfront garages runs $10-15 per day.