Glacier National Park: Before the Glaciers Are Gone

When the park was established in 1910, it had 150 named glaciers. The current count is around 25, down from 37 in 1966. That number will continue to fall regardless of what happens from here – the ice locked in place before the 1990s is already committed to melting over the decades ahead. Climate projections suggest most of what remains will be gone by 2080 or earlier. This is worth stating plainly because the park was named for something that is disappearing, and the window for seeing it as its name implies is open but not indefinitely.

None of this diminishes the scenery. The mountains, lakes, meadows, and wildlife are exceptional independent of the glacial count. But if glacial ice specifically is on your list, the time to go is now rather than eventually.

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The 80-kilometre road from West Glacier to St. Mary is one of the great drives in North America. It climbs from the valley floor through dense forest, breaks into open cliff faces above the tree line, reaches Logan Pass at the Continental Divide (2,026 metres), and descends to the grasslands of the east side. The views of the divide from the upper sections are legitimately stunning and unlike anything accessible on any other paved road in the country.

In 2026, the vehicle reservation system has changed: private vehicles no longer need timed-entry permits to drive the road. However, Logan Pass has introduced a 3-hour parking limit for private vehicles starting July 1, and an express shuttle service now connects the entrance to Logan Pass for visitors who want to skip the parking pressure entirely. Shuttle tickets release 60 days in advance through recreation.gov and sell out quickly on peak dates. The park entry fee still applies; purchase it ahead online to avoid the gate queue.

Logan Pass is the trailhead for the Hidden Lake Overlook trail (3.2 kilometres return, easy to moderate, views of the peaks and the lake below) and the Highline Trail, which runs along the Garden Wall ridge for over 12 kilometres with continuous panoramic views. The Highline Trail is exposed and inappropriate in stormy conditions; the Logan Pass visitor centre has current reports. The Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake are not accessible via the shuttle system in 2026, so plan your own transport to those trailheads.

Wildlife

Glacier has one of the healthiest remaining wildlife ecosystems in the contiguous United States, and grizzly bears are the reason to stay alert at all times. They are present throughout the park and encounters are not rare. Carry bear spray – available for hire at park stores – and use it on the right hip where you can reach it in seconds. Make noise on trails in dense vegetation. The Park Service guidance on bear encounters is clear and specific; read it before you hike.

Mountain goats frequent the Logan Pass area and are often visible from the road. The fact that they have been there so long they barely notice humans is charming until you understand it means people feed them, which damages the goats. Keep distance. Bighorn sheep appear on rocky slopes throughout the park, particularly in the Many Glacier valley. Black bears, moose, marmots, and pikas are common; mountain lions are present but almost never seen.

Many Glacier Valley

For many people who return to Glacier repeatedly, Many Glacier valley in the northeast is the park’s most rewarding section. The lake-filled valley, surrounded by multi-coloured peaks and served by the historic Many Glacier Hotel (built 1915, significantly restored), offers good hiking at every difficulty level. The Grinnell Glacier Trail (19 kilometres return, gaining over 400 metres) takes you to the remaining Grinnell Glacier. Historic photographs displayed at the trailhead show the glacier’s extent at intervals through the 20th century; the visual comparison of what was there versus what is there now is more striking than any statistic.

Staying in the Many Glacier Hotel is expensive by national park standards but worth the cost if it fits the budget. Evening light on the peaks from the hotel terrace and the ability to hike from the door before the day-trippers arrive are both real advantages.

Two Medicine

Two Medicine in the southeast is the least-visited of the main park sections, which requires a longer drive from either main entrance but provides considerably more solitude. The Scenic Point trail and the hike combination to Upper Two Medicine Lake are both rewarding. If you have a car and a morning to spare, it is worth the detour.

Practical Notes

The park is accessible from West Glacier on the west (near Kalispell and Glacier Park International Airport) and St. Mary on the east. The season is compressed: Going-to-the-Sun Road typically opens to vehicles in late June and closes by mid-October. Snow can close Logan Pass in any month. July and August are the most reliable; June still has snow at elevation and can close upper sections.

Book lodge accommodation a full year ahead without exaggeration. Popular campgrounds (Apgar, Fish Creek) fill months in advance. Visiting before July 4 or after Labor Day reduces crowding and relieves some of the reservation pressure – the park is still excellent in that window and the bears are still present, which is the main thing.