Hawaiian Islands, Hawaii

Kilauea Is Erupting Right Now

Kilauea’s Halemaumau crater entered Episode 50 of its ongoing eruption on June 27, 2026, producing lava fountains rising 30 metres and expected to climb above 180 metres within hours of onset. The eruption is confined to the summit crater inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. From the Crater Rim overlooks, the fountaining is visible day and night during active episodes. The current alert level is WATCH. This matters because it makes the Big Island uniquely compelling right now: where else can you see active lava fountaining from a short drive off the highway?

The pattern since December 2024 has been episodic: fountaining starts, peaks over hours or days, and pauses before the next episode resumes within one to three weeks. Check the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website before your Big Island visit to see whether an episode is underway. An active episode changes everything about a visit to the park.

What the Islands Actually Are

The Hawaiian archipelago formed over a stationary volcanic hotspot in the Pacific mantle. The tectonic plate moves northwest above it; the Big Island (Hawaii) sits over the hotspot now, which is why it has active volcanoes. Maui is where the hotspot was more recently, and the Haleakala shield volcano is classified dormant rather than extinct (its last eruption was probably in the 1700s). The older, northwestern islands get smaller and lower as the plate moves them away from the heat source. This geological assembly line is one of the more unusual things on earth. The Big Island is still growing from underwater eruptions at its southeastern edge.

Oahu

Most visitors arrive at Honolulu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport and most accommodation is concentrated around Waikiki, a dense strip of hotels facing a narrow beach on the south shore of Oahu. Waikiki is convenient and has improved as a destination in recent years; it is also genuinely crowded in season and the beach is not Oahu’s best. The North Shore, about 45 minutes by car, is where serious surf happens. Between November and February, swells at Banzai Pipeline reach 6 to 9 metres and the professional contests run here. Watching from the beach is free.

Pearl Harbor, 15 minutes west of Waikiki, includes the USS Arizona Memorial (free entry, operated by the National Park Service), the Battleship Missouri (where Japan signed the surrender in 1945), and the Pacific Aviation Museum. The USS Arizona site requires a timed entry reservation booked in advance; the National Park Service site (recreation.gov) handles tickets. Arrive early; the free tickets for walk-ups are limited and disappear quickly.

Kailua on the windward (east) coast of Oahu is a compact beach town with one of the best beaches in Hawaii, Kailua Beach, and good local restaurants. It is a practical alternative base to Waikiki for anyone who can access car rental.

Maui

Haleakala National Park summit requires a sunrise reservation (1 dollar per vehicle, booked up to 60 days in advance at recreation.gov) if you plan to arrive between 3am and 7am. The park entry fee is 30 dollars per vehicle for a 3-day pass. Sunrise from 3,055 metres is cold, frequently cloudy, and occasionally transcendent. Dress for 4 degrees Celsius regardless of the lowland temperature; the wind above the summit can be severe.

The Road to Hana is a 65-kilometre drive along the north coast of Maui, covering 617 curves and 59 bridges. It takes at least 3 hours in each direction without stops, more with them. The waterfalls at Twin Falls, the pools of Ohe’o Gulch (also called the Seven Sacred Pools, in the Kipahulu section of Haleakala National Park), and the general experience of dense tropical vegetation meeting the coast are all genuine. The road is now one way in sections during peak hours to manage congestion, which means planning the return timing before you leave.

Lahaina, the historic port town on Maui’s west coast, was nearly destroyed by wildfire in August 2023. As of mid-2026, the main town remains largely closed and rebuilding is ongoing (approximately 550 permits issued, 160 structures completed). Lahaina Harbour has partially reopened for commercial tours. The famous Banyan Tree, planted in 1873, is in ongoing care but has survived and is gradually recovering. The Kaanapali and Kapalua resort areas north of Lahaina are fully operational and the tourist economy of west Maui has largely resumed.

Mama’s Fish House in Paia on the north shore of Maui is the most cited restaurant in the state and requires reservations made months in advance. The fish is named on the menu by the fisherman who caught it. It is expensive and the experience generally justifies the cost if the type of cooking it does (fresh local fish, careful preparation, no shortcuts) matches your interests.

The Big Island

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park holds both Kilauea and Mauna Loa, the world’s largest volcano by volume. The park is open 24 hours. The Crater Rim Drive gives access to overlooks above Halemaumau; during an active eruption episode, the glow is visible at night from several kilometres away. The Thurston Lava Tube, a 500-year-old lava tunnel you can walk through, and the Chain of Craters Road descending to the coast are both worth the time regardless of eruption activity.

Mauna Kea Observatory, at 4,205 metres, sits above 40 percent of the earth’s atmosphere and has the clearest sky in the northern hemisphere for astronomical observation. The summit visitor centre offers free stargazing programs when weather permits. The access road from the visitor centre to the summit is unpaved and requires a 4WD vehicle; rental car companies prohibit taking standard cars above the visitor centre, which sits at 2,800 metres and offers its own excellent conditions.

Hilo on the east side of the island is wetter than the Kona side (west), cheaper, and more authentically local. The Hilo Farmers Market runs Wednesdays and Saturdays. The town has a traditional small-city feel with decent restaurants and good access to both Volcanoes National Park (45 minutes south) and Mauna Kea (45 minutes north).

Kauai

Kauai is the oldest of the main islands and the most dramatically eroded: the Na Pali Coast on the northwest shore exposes sea cliffs that rise over 900 metres in places and can only be reached by hiking (the 17-kilometre Kalalau Trail requires a permit) or by boat. Helicopter tours provide the easiest view of the interior valleys and the Na Pali cliffs; they are expensive (around 300 to 400 dollars per person) and warrant it for the geography on display.

Waimea Canyon, sometimes called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, is a 16-kilometre long, 900-metre deep canyon on the west side of the island. The road to the canyon rim viewpoints passes through several weather zones; the canyon can be in full sun while the east coast is overcast.

Kauai has relatively few commercial developments compared to Oahu or Maui and is where you go if green valleys, hiking, and solitude are the priorities. Princeville on the north shore and Poipu on the south are the main resort areas; both are comfortable without being overwhelming.

Where to Eat

The local food culture in Hawaii runs on plate lunches: two scoops of rice, macaroni salad, and a protein (kalua pork, teriyaki chicken, fish). It costs 12 to 18 dollars at a local diner or plate lunch window and is filling, cheap, and representative of how residents actually eat. On Oahu, Rainbow Drive-In in Kapahulu has been doing this since 1961. On Kauai, Ishihara Market and Pono Market are reliable plate lunch stops.

Poke counters at grocery stores and fish markets are the other essential category: fresh raw fish cubed and dressed with soy, sesame, and onion, sold by the pound. Foodland supermarkets across the islands have good poke counters at prices well below restaurant poke bowls. Ono Seafood on Oahu is frequently cited as the best standalone poke shop in the state.

Accommodation tax in Hawaii since January 2026 sits at roughly 19 percent total when state and county levies are combined, among the highest in the United States. Factor this into accommodation budgets.

Where to Stay

On Oahu, Waikiki works logistically and has a hotel for every budget. The Royal Hawaiian, the original pink palace, charges accordingly. For quieter surroundings, Kailua has small hotels and vacation rentals.

On Maui, the Kaanapali and Wailea resort strips offer standard large-resort amenities. Smaller Paia and Makawao on the north and upcountry are alternatives for those who want a less resort-oriented experience.

On the Big Island, splitting time between the Kona side (sunnier, better snorkeling) and Hilo (better for volcanoes and the eastern rainforest) is the practical approach for a week-long visit.

Getting There

Honolulu is the main international hub, with direct routes from the US mainland, Japan, South Korea, Australia, and Canada. Inter-island flights on Hawaiian Airlines and Southwest Airlines take 30 to 45 minutes between the main islands and run frequently. Car rental is essentially necessary on every island except Oahu, where Honolulu’s TheBus network covers most tourist areas.

Check the USGS volcano update page before arriving on the Big Island if lava viewing is on your list. The difference between an active episode and a pause is the difference between one of the most remarkable natural sights on earth and a very good national park without it.