Iguazu National Park, Argentina
Iguazu Falls: Argentina vs Brazil, and Which Side is Better
Iguazu Falls straddles the border between Argentina and Misiones province and the Brazilian state of Parana. Both sides offer access; they are genuinely different experiences and the honest answer is that you should do both if you have two days.
The Argentine side has more walking. The circuit system runs along the upper and lower catwalks, taking you within a few metres of individual falls, allowing you to understand the scale and complexity of the 275 separate cascades spread across 2.7km. The Upper Circuit (1.5km, 1 hour) gives the view from above. The Lower Circuit (1.7km, 1.5 hours) puts you at water level. Both are included in the park entry fee of approximately ARS 5,000-7,000 (prices change with inflation; check current rates).
Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) is the dominant section, a U-shaped chasm with a 150-metre drop that sends permanent clouds of spray 30 metres into the air. The viewing platform involves a 1.1km raised walkway over the river. In the wet season (November-March) the volume is so high that photography is difficult: everything is mist. The dry season (June-September) gives cleaner views and more structure to the individual falls.
The Brazilian side (Parque Nacional do Iguacu) has one main circuit, a 1.2km walkway that ends with a platform directly beneath the falls. The view here is panoramic and lets you see the full width of the Argentine side. This is where the iconic full-width photograph happens.
The Boat Ride
Both sides offer zodiac boat rides that take you directly under the falls. You will get completely soaked; do not bring anything that cannot be saturated. The Argentine operator (Iguazu Jungle) charges around ARS 8,000. It’s loud, wet, and worth doing once.
Getting There
The town of Puerto Iguazu (Argentina) or Foz do Iguacu (Brazil) are the bases. Puerto Iguazu has around 35,000 people, direct flights from Buenos Aires (1.5 hours, LAN/LATAM and Aerolineas) for around $80-150 USD return. The park is 20km from town; buses run every 30 minutes from the bus terminal. The Brazilian side is reached by crossing the border at the Tancredo Neves bridge (taxi or bus).
Staying
Iguazu Grand Resort on the Argentine side is near the entrance and good (from $180/night). Puerto Canoas lodge inside the park itself, adjacent to Garganta del Diablo, is small, expensive, and gives early access before the day visitors arrive. In town, Panoramic Grand Hotel is reliable and has pool views toward Brazil.
Eating
The park restaurants on both sides are functional and expensive. In Puerto Iguazu town, El Quincho del Tio Querido on Bompland Street is the place for proper Argentine asado at reasonable prices: around ARS 3,000-5,000 for a full meal with wine. The pork ribs and chorizo are both good.
Coatis (large, raccoon-like animals) near the park entrance will steal food from your hands. Hold your lunch bag firmly or lose it.