Important: Tibet access requires current research. Tibet Autonomous Region requires a separate Tibet Travel Permit in addition to a Chinese visa. The permit must be arranged through a licensed Tibetan travel agency before arriving in Tibet; it cannot be obtained on arrival. The region closes to foreign visitors at politically sensitive dates (the anniversary of the 1959 uprising in March, Tibetan New Year, and other occasions). Check current conditions from a Tibet-specialist agency before making any bookings. Independent travel without a guide and fixed itinerary is not permitted.

---

Jokhang Temple: The Centre of Tibetan Buddhism

Jokhang Temple is the most sacred site in Tibetan Buddhism, built in 639 CE and housing the Jowo Rinpoche – a gilded statue of the twelve-year-old Buddha, considered the most precious object in Tibet. The statue was brought from China as part of the dowry of Princess Wencheng, who married King Songtsen Gampo. It has been in the temple for nearly 1,400 years, surviving the Cultural Revolution only because Zhou Enlai reportedly ordered the Red Guards not to destroy it.

The main entrance faces west rather than east (unusual for Buddhist temples), oriented toward Nepal, where Songtsen Gampo’s other wife Bhrikuti came from. That decision encodes the 7th-century Tibetan diplomatic strategy in the building’s orientation.

The Barkhor Circuit

The Barkhor is the sacred kora (circumambulation circuit) surrounding Jokhang Temple, approximately 800 metres in circumference, walked clockwise. This has been the primary pilgrimage circuit in Lhasa for centuries. Pilgrims from across Tibet come here, some having walked for weeks. Some perform prostration circuits – measuring the circuit with their body length, rising, moving forward, prostrating again. The circuit takes most people 20-30 minutes to walk; pilgrims doing it by prostration take considerably longer.

The surrounding Barkhor market sells thangkas, prayer wheels, butter lamps, incense, and Tibetan religious objects. Prices are above ordinary Lhasa shop prices and bargaining is expected.

Inside the Temple

The main hall contains the Jowo Rinpoche in a gold-draped shrine surrounded by butter lamps. The press of pilgrims at peak times makes the inner sanctum difficult to move through; arrive early (the temple opens at 8am) when it’s more manageable. The roof terrace gives views across the Barkhor circuit and toward the Potala Palace.

The Potala Palace

No visit to Lhasa treats Jokhang independently from the Potala Palace – the former winter residence of the Dalai Lamas, visible from most of the city, standing at 3,700 metres elevation. Entry is timed and ticketed (arrange through your Tibet agency); the main halls, throne rooms, and tombs of past Dalai Lamas are visited in a fixed sequence. Allow 2-3 hours.

Altitude

Lhasa is at 3,650 metres. Altitude sickness is real – headache, nausea, and fatigue are common on arrival. Build 2-3 days of acclimatisation into your itinerary before strenuous sightseeing. Drink water, avoid alcohol on arrival, and consider consulting your physician about diamox (acetazolamide) for altitude prevention before travel.