Kailash Kher and the Music of Delhi

Kailash Kher has one of those voices that sounds like it was quarried from somewhere. He grew up in Delhi, trained in Hindustani classical music, spent years busking and struggling, then broke through in 2003 with “Allah Ke Bande” on the Bollywood soundtrack for Waah! Tera Kya Kehna. Since then, he’s released several albums under his own label, toured internationally, and become one of the more recognisable figures in contemporary Indian folk and sufi-influenced pop.

If you’re visiting Delhi and want to connect with the musical culture that shaped him, there’s a reasonable itinerary to be built around the city.

Old Delhi and Sufi Music

The lanes around Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah in South Delhi are the spiritual home of qawwali music. The dargah (shrine of the Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya) hosts free qawwali performances on Thursday evenings from around 6pm. They go on until late, the atmosphere is intense, and there’s nothing polished or touristy about it. Arrive by 5:30pm to get a decent spot, dress modestly, leave your shoes at the entrance.

Old Delhi more broadly is worth a full day. The lanes around Chandni Chowk are loud and chaotic and completely absorbing. Karim’s, off Urdu Bazar Road near the Jama Masjid, has been serving Mughal-era recipes since 1913. The mutton burra and the seekh kebabs are what you go for.

Concerts and Events

Kher performs regularly across India, particularly at large outdoor festivals and corporate events. His calendar is usually posted via his social media accounts. If you’re in Mumbai or Delhi between October and February, there’s a good chance he’ll be playing somewhere within reach. The NH7 Weekender festival (Pune, November) has featured him several times.

Where to Eat

Beyond Karim’s, if you’re staying in central Delhi:

• Saravana Bhavan (multiple locations) for South Indian breakfasts — the masala dosa is reliable at any branch.
• Paranthe Wali Gali in Chandni Chowk for stuffed flatbreads. It’s absurdly touristy but the parathas are genuinely good, particularly the banana and dry fruit varieties.

Where to Stay

The Claridges on Aurangzeb Road is a colonial-era hotel that has aged better than most. Calm, good restaurant, central enough. A step below in price, Hotel Broadway near Daryaganj is basic and perfectly adequate for a few nights.

Getting Around

Delhi’s metro is excellent and covers most sites you’d want to reach. Old Delhi is reachable on the Yellow Line (Chandni Chowk station). The Nizamuddin area is a short auto-rickshaw ride from Nizamuddin station on the Pink Line. Book autos through the app (Ola or Rapido) to avoid fare negotiation.

One thing worth knowing: Delhi in May and June is genuinely brutal heat. The October to March window is far more comfortable for walking around.