Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown: The Scenery Is Real

Lake Wakatipu is the third-largest lake in New Zealand, a long narrow finger of water running 80km between the mountains of Otago. Queenstown sits at its elbow. The lake itself is extraordinary — deep blue-green, surrounded by the Remarkables range to the east and Coronet Peak to the north, with snow on the tops for most of the year. It photographs well and looks even better in person.

Queenstown has become New Zealand’s adventure tourism capital, which is both its appeal and occasionally its drawback. It can feel like an outdoor theme park. The scenery is not a theme park. If you make time to get away from the commercial strip along the lake front, you’ll find it quickly.

What to Do

Glenorchy is 45km north on the lake’s western shore — a 45-minute drive on a road that runs along the lakeside for most of its length. The village is tiny and is the starting point for hikes into the Mount Aspiring National Park, including the Rees-Dart Track and the Routeburn Track. It’s also where much of The Lord of the Rings was filmed, which brings its own tourist infrastructure but doesn’t ruin the place. The café in Glenorchy serves good food in a building with a corrugated iron roof and a view of the Dart River valley.

The Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks: 32km, typically done in 2-3 days, running through beech forest and alpine terrain between the Routeburn and Hollyford valleys. Huts are bookable through DOC (Department of Conservation) and should be reserved 6 months ahead for the main season (October-April). Walk it independently if you’re fit and experienced; guided options exist for those who prefer company.

Queenstown Hill (Te Taumata o Rahiri) rises directly above town. A 2-3 hour return walk from the town centre reaches the summit at 907m with uninterrupted views down the lake and across to the Remarkables. Go early morning for the best light.

The TSS Earnslaw is a vintage coal-fired steamship that has been cruising Wakatipu since 1912. Afternoon tea cruises run to Walter Peak Station on the far shore, where you can watch a sheep-shearing demonstration. Very touristy; fairly endearing if you’re in the mood.

Where to Eat

Fergburger on Shotover Street is the legendary Queenstown burger joint that operates 21 hours a day and usually has a queue. The burgers are genuinely very good. Go between 11am and noon or after 9pm to minimise the wait.

Rata on The Mall does excellent modern New Zealand cooking using South Island produce. It’s the most serious restaurant in town. Book ahead.

Winnie’s on the lakefront does pizza and has a great position for watching the light change on the Remarkables at sunset.

Where to Stay

Eichardt’s Private Hotel on Marine Parade is the landmark property — small, expensive, very well located. For mid-range, Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel has mountain views and is a short walk from the centre. Hostels in the area around Shotover Street and on the lower slopes above town are plentiful and competitive on price.

Getting There

Queenstown Airport receives direct flights from Auckland, Christchurch, and Wellington, plus international flights from Sydney, Melbourne, and some Asian cities. The airport is 7km from central Queenstown; taxis and shuttles run frequently.