Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown: The Scenery Is Real

Lake Wakatipu has a geological peculiarity: it’s one of the deepest lakes in the world by lake-floor depth below sea level. The lake sits at 310 metres above sea level, and the deepest point of the lake floor is 80 metres below sea level – meaning the bottom is lower than the ocean. The long narrow trough was carved by glacier action during the last ice age, leaving 80 kilometres of water between the Remarkables range to the east and Coronet Peak to the north. The depth keeps the water cold and clear and the surrounding mountains keep the light interesting.

Queenstown sits at the lake’s elbow, and it has become New Zealand’s adventure tourism capital, which is both its appeal and occasionally its drawback. The commercial strip along the waterfront is not the lake. The lake, and the country around it, is extraordinary. Getting away from the organised activity infrastructure – which takes about 20 minutes of driving – reveals why people settled here.

Glenorchy and the Mountain

Glenorchy is 45 kilometres north on the lake’s western shore – a 45-minute drive along a road that runs lakeside for most of its length, past the Cecil and Walter Peaks across the water. The village is the starting point for several serious multi-day hikes into Mount Aspiring National Park, including the Routeburn Track and the Rees-Dart Track. Much of The Lord of the Rings was filmed in the valleys around Glenorchy, which brings its own tourist infrastructure but doesn’t ruin the place. The café in the village serves good food and the view of the Dart River valley from the car park is available without any additional effort.

The Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand’s nine designated Great Walks: 32 kilometres through beech forest and alpine terrain, typically completed in 2-3 days. Huts are bookable through the Department of Conservation and need to be reserved 6 months ahead for the October-April main season.

Queenstown Hill (Te Taumata o Rahiri) rises directly above town. The return walk from the centre takes 2-3 hours and reaches 907 metres with unobstructed views down the lake and across to the Remarkables. Go early morning for the best light before the afternoon cloud builds.

Where to Eat

Fergburger on Shotover Street operates 21 hours a day. The queue is real and the burgers genuinely justify it. Go between 11am and noon or after 9pm.

Rata on The Mall does modern New Zealand cooking using South Island produce. The most serious restaurant in town; book ahead.

Getting There

Queenstown Airport receives direct flights from Auckland, Christchurch, and Wellington, plus international flights from Sydney, Melbourne, and some Asian cities. The airport is 7 kilometres from central Queenstown.