Lake Wanaka: The South Island Alternative to Queenstown That is Actually Better

Queenstown gets the marketing budget and the bachelor parties. Lake Wanaka, 60 kilometres north in the same mountain range, gets the alpine light, a calmer lake, a more considered food scene, and visitors who made the effort to look at a map. The comparison isn’t entirely fair; they’re different places doing different things. But if your priority is spending time on and around the water in genuinely spectacular scenery without fighting through a perpetual high-season crowd, Wanaka is the stronger choice.

The Lake and the Town

Lake Wanaka sits at 278 metres above sea level and covers 192 square kilometres, making it the fourth-largest lake in New Zealand. The mountains around it are part of the Southern Alps, with Mt Aspiring National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage area, directly to the north. Wanaka township sits on the lake’s southern shore; the rest of the shoreline is accessible by track or boat.

That Wanaka Tree, a small crack willow growing out of the water near the town edge, is genuinely photogenic and genuinely worth a brief stop. It became one of the most photographed trees in the world through Instagram and has survived vandalism (several limbs were deliberately sawn off in 2020) to remain standing. It is a 20-minute walk from the visitor centre. The best light is early morning.

Roy’s Peak

Roy’s Peak Track is the defining hike from Wanaka. It climbs 1,200 metres over roughly 8 kilometres to a summit ridge at 1,578 metres, where the standard photograph of Lake Wanaka from above has been taken approximately two million times. The total return distance is 16 kilometres; allow 5-7 hours. The track is unmarked slog on a clear gravel path for most of its length, with no particular navigation challenge, but the gradient is unrelenting. Start before 7:00 AM in summer to reach the summit before clouds build and to avoid sharing the ridge with the full day crowd. The car park on Mount Aspiring Road fills by 9:00 AM on summer weekends; either arrive earlier or use the shuttle services that run from Wanaka town.

The track closes annually for lambing from 1 October to 10 November. Outside that closure it is open year-round. Winter ascents require crampons and ice axe; check conditions with DOC Wanaka before attempting an off-season climb.

Other Hikes and Outdoor Activities

Rob Roy Track in the Matukituki Valley north of town is a shorter, more dramatic hike than Roy’s Peak: 10 kilometres return, roughly 3-4 hours, through beech forest to a hanging glacier and waterfall viewpoint. The drive up the Matukituki Valley to the trailhead is itself worth the time, tracking along a braided glacier river with Mt Aspiring visible ahead.

Diamond Lakes Walk is a good 45-minute option for families or those who have already exhausted their legs on Roy’s Peak.

Kayaking and paddleboarding on the lake itself are available through several operators in town; the early morning lake surface in calm weather is exceptional. Jet boating on the Clutha River (which drains from Lake Wanaka) is a faster-paced alternative. Skydiving over the lake with views of the Southern Alps is offered by several operators and is arguably the best skydiving scenery in New Zealand.

Ski Season: Three ski areas serve the Wanaka region: Cardrona Alpine Resort (30 minutes south), Treble Cone (which has the longest vertical drop of any ski area on the South Island), and Snow Farm (cross-country). The season runs approximately June to mid-October. Wanaka is a quieter base for South Island skiing than Queenstown, which benefits the experience considerably.

Where to Eat

Muttonbird serves some of the best cooking in Wanaka with a seasonal menu that uses lesser-known cuts and less predictable ingredients than the standard Central Otago menu. Worth booking ahead on weekends. Kika focuses on sharing plates with creative vegetarian options in a small, popular room.

Bistro Gentil is well-regarded for French-influenced food and a wine list that reflects the Central Otago region’s strength in pinot noir. Big Fig on the main street does Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cafe food with vegan and gluten-free options done more thoughtfully than is typical. The food truck cluster on Brownston Street (Burrito Craft, Charlie Brown’s Crepes, Firebird for fried chicken) is where locals and budget travellers eat well quickly.

Central Otago pinot noir is among the best in the southern hemisphere. Wanaka sits at the northern edge of this wine region; the Rippon Vineyard on the lake shore is open for tastings and has one of the more dramatic vineyard settings anywhere in New Zealand.

Where to Stay

Edgewater Hotel is the only accommodation directly on the lake shore, with water views from most rooms, a restaurant, and spa. It earns the premium. Club Wyndham Wanaka is in town with an outdoor heated pool, hot tub, and good-value rooms from around NZD 300 per night.

For budget stays, Bella Vista Motel Lake Wanaka is clean, heated, well-located, and in the NZD 200-500 range depending on season. Holiday parks and backpacker options fill quickly in summer; book ahead.

Getting There

Queenstown Airport is 60 kilometres south (around 45-60 minutes by car, following the Crown Range road through Cardrona for a faster but steeper route, or the longer lake road). There is no commercial airport at Wanaka, though small charter flights operate. Buses connect from Queenstown throughout the day. Driving the Crown Range in winter requires caution; check conditions before using this route.

Practical Notes

Summer (December to February) is warm, dry, and busy. Autumn (March to May) brings the Central Otago colour show as poplars and willows turn gold and amber, with smaller crowds and excellent conditions for photography. Book accommodation in Wanaka well ahead for January; it fills faster than most visitors expect for a town of this size. The town centre is small and entirely walkable; a car becomes useful primarily for getting to the trailheads and ski areas.