Lascaux: Why You Cannot See the Original Cave (and What to Do Instead)

The original Lascaux cave near Montignac in the Dordogne has been closed since 1963. Four teenagers discovered it in September 1940, following their dog down a collapsed tree root shaft. When it opened to visitors in 1948, the cave received 1,200 visitors per day. Within a decade, the carbon dioxide and humidity from those visitors had triggered algae and fungus growth on the 17,000-year-old paintings. The cave was closed. Around 30 researchers and conservators are permitted to enter per year. Tourist access is permanently suspended.

The question for visitors is therefore what experience of Lascaux is actually available, not whether to visit the original.

Lascaux IV

The Centre International de l’Art Parietal (Lascaux IV) opened in December 2016 at a cost of approximately 62 million euros, 2 kilometres from the original cave site. The building is a concrete structure by the Snohetta architecture firm (who designed the Oslo Opera House), partially embedded in the hillside.

The core is a full-scale physical and digital replica of the original cave’s most important sections, the Hall of the Bulls, the Axial Gallery, the Apse, the Shaft, reproduced to millimetre accuracy using photogrammetric scanning and robotic carving. The surface textures, natural undulations, and mineral deposits that the Palaeolithic artists used to give dimensionality to painted animals are replicated. Lighting reproduces the flickering effect of animal fat lamps.

The paintings are 17,000 years old. The Hall of the Bulls contains four black aurochs, the largest 5.2 metres long. The Axial Gallery has horses, ibex, deer, and a rhinoceros. Approximately 600 individual figures throughout the cave system. The technique includes outline drawing, infill using manganese dioxide and ochre, and deliberate use of rock surface topography. These are not primitive scratches; they are the work of artists with complete control of their materials and an evident understanding of composition.

Admission: adults €20, children 5-12 €13. Guided tours of the cave replica are included. Book at lascaux.fr, especially July-August when timed slots fill weeks ahead.

Font-de-Gaume: The Real Thing

Font-de-Gaume near Les Eyzies is the only original polychrome Palaeolithic cave still open to the public in France. Bison, mammoths, and horses painted in red, black, and brown on naturally textured walls. Access is strictly limited to 180 visitors per day in groups of 12. Book at fontdegaume.fr (adults €9); summer slots sell out weeks ahead.

The Vezere Valley Circuit

Rouffignac (the Cave of a Hundred Mammoths) offers a narrow-gauge electric train 1.5 kilometres into the cave past mammoth engravings. Adults €8.50. Les Eyzies-de-Tayac village has the National Museum of Prehistory with the best collection of Palaeolithic artefacts in Europe (adults €7).

Where to Eat and Stay

Le Relais de la Cote de Jor in Montignac serves Perigord classics: confit de canard, cèpes sautes, walnut cake. Dinner around €30-45. In autumn (September-November) order cèpes wherever you see them.

Sarlat-la-Caneda (25km south) has an excellent Saturday market. Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat (Michelin-starred, dinner €60-90) is the reference for fine Perigord cooking.

Chateau de la Fleunie near Lascaux (from €120-190) is a 13th-century chateau with pool in forested grounds.

Getting There

Fly to Bergerac (served by Ryanair from UK and Ireland) or Bordeaux (2 hours south by road). A car is essential; cave sites are spread over 30km and there is no practical public transport. Book accommodation months ahead for July-August.