Lhasa: Tibet’s Capital at 3,650 Metres

Getting to Lhasa involves more paperwork than most destinations. Foreign visitors require a Tibet Travel Permit in addition to a standard Chinese visa, obtainable through a licensed Tibetan tour operator. You cannot travel independently in Tibet; all foreign visitors must be accompanied by a guide. The permits and logistics are not difficult to arrange, but they do mean booking through an operator rather than showing up and figuring it out.

That aside: Lhasa is one of the more remarkable cities in the world, and the altitude stops being a significant issue for most people after 2-3 days of taking it slowly.

Potala Palace

The Potala dominates everything. The former winter palace of the Dalai Lamas, it was completed in the 17th century on the ruins of an earlier 7th-century palace. The red and white structure contains roughly 1,000 rooms across 13 storeys, climbing 300 metres above the Lhasa valley floor. Entry tickets are strictly timed and limited to around 2,300 visitors per day (book in advance through your tour operator). You get 1 hour inside. The Red Palace contains the burial stupas of previous Dalai Lamas, covered in gold and encrusted with semi-precious stones; the White Palace holds governmental and monastic quarters.

The view from the roof is, predictably, extraordinary.

Jokhang Temple

Built in the 7th century, the Jokhang is the most sacred temple in Tibetan Buddhism. The main image — a gold statue of Jowo Shakyamuni, said to have been brought from China by Princess Wencheng around 641 CE — draws pilgrims from across Tibet. The kora (circumambulation path) around the exterior of the temple is active from early morning, lined with prostrating pilgrims. Walking the outer Barkhor circuit around the temple block takes about 20 minutes and offers the best street-level sense of Lhasa’s religious and commercial life.

Barkhor Street

The market streets around the Jokhang sell everything: prayer flags, thangka paintings (quality varies enormously), yak-wool textiles, jewellery, butter lamps, and a substantial quantity of tourist trinkets. The genuine craft items are worth finding. Good thangkas take weeks to paint and cost accordingly; the sub-100-yuan versions are printed.

Where to Eat

Makye Ame Restaurant on Barkhor Square (top floor, terrace) is the standard traveller recommendation — decent Tibetan food with views of the square. For momos (dumplings) at normal prices, the small local restaurants in the Tibetan quarter around Barkhor are better value than anything marketed at tourists.

Summit Cafe near the Potala is popular with tour groups and serves reasonable Western breakfasts.

Where to Stay

St. Regis Lhasa is the top-end option, somewhat incongruously. For something more grounded, Hotel Kyichu near Barkhor Square has traditional architecture and a courtyard, and is well located.

Altitude

Take it seriously. Arrive by train if possible (the Qinghai-Tibet Railway from Xining, at around 25 hours, acclimatises you gradually). Fly only if your time is limited, and plan to rest the first 24 hours after arrival. Headaches and shortness of breath are normal for 2-3 days; if symptoms worsen, that’s a medical issue. Diamox (acetazolamide) helps some people; discuss with a doctor before travel.