Lhasa: The Paperwork Is Worth It

Getting to Lhasa is the most administratively demanding major destination in Asia. Foreign visitors require a Tibet Travel Permit in addition to a standard Chinese visa, obtainable only through a licensed Tibetan tour operator. Independent travel in Tibet is not permitted for foreign nationals; a guide must accompany you at all times. Permits and logistics are not particularly difficult once you’re working with a competent operator, but they do mean that showing up and figuring it out is not an option.

That aside: Lhasa at 3,650 metres altitude is one of the more remarkable cities in the world, and the altitude is manageable if you give it 2-3 days of taking it slowly. Arriving by train rather than flying is not just logistically possible - the Qinghai-Tibet Railway from Xining takes about 22 hours but acclimatises you gradually as the altitude increases, rather than dropping you directly into thin air. The train itself passes through extraordinary Tibetan plateau landscape.

The Potala Palace

The Potala dominates the city from every angle. The former winter palace of the Dalai Lamas was completed in the 17th century on the foundations of a 7th-century palace attributed to Songtsen Gampo. The red-and-white structure contains roughly 1,000 rooms across 13 storeys, rising 300 metres above the valley floor. Entry is strictly limited to around 2,300 visitors per day with timed ticketing; book in advance through your tour operator. You get one hour inside. The Red Palace contains the burial stupas of eight Dalai Lamas, covered in gold leaf and encrusted with turquoise, coral, and sapphires. The White Palace held governmental and residential quarters.

The view from the roof looks out over the Lhasa valley and, on clear days, to the peaks beyond. This alone justifies the climb.

Jokhang Temple

Built in the 7th century on what Tibetan tradition holds was a sacred lake, the Jokhang is the most sacred temple in Tibetan Buddhism. The central image - a golden statue of Jowo Shakyamuni (the historical Buddha at age 12) - draws pilgrims from across Tibet and the wider Buddhist world. The kora (circumambulation path) around the exterior is active from early morning, with pilgrims prostrating the full circuit. Walking the outer Barkhor circuit around the entire temple block takes about 20 minutes and provides the best street-level experience of Lhasa’s religious life.

The street markets of the Barkhor sell prayer flags, thangka paintings, yak-wool textiles, butter lamps, and jewellery. The genuine thangkas - painted by hand over weeks - are costly and worth the price if you’re buying; the sub-100-yuan versions are printed and are not the same thing.

Altitude

Take it seriously. Headaches and shortness of breath are normal for the first 2-3 days; rest, drink water, avoid alcohol, and don’t push yourself on those first days. If symptoms worsen rather than improve, descend and get medical attention. Diamox (acetazolamide) helps some people and is worth discussing with a doctor before travel. The train acclimatisation is significantly preferable to flying if your schedule allows.

Hotel Kyichu near Barkhor Square has traditional Tibetan architecture and a courtyard, and is well located for both the Jokhang and the Barkhor. Makye Ame Restaurant on Barkhor Square serves reliable Tibetan food with views of the square from its terrace.