Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park: Art That Becomes Reef

Jason deCaires Taylor placed the first sculptures in Molinere Bay in 2006 with a specific intention: to create artificial reef substrate that would transfer authorship to the Caribbean Sea over time. The sculptures, more than 65 life-sized cement figures in 3-8 metres of water, were designed not to remain as he made them. Fifteen years of coral and sponge growth later, the figures are half-colonised, their original features softened by marine biology, fish moving in and out of spaces between encrusted hands and faces. This is the correct result.

This was the world’s first underwater sculpture park; MUSA in Cancun and other installations followed. The Grenada site remains the original and is maintained and occasionally expanded.

Visiting the Park

The depth of 3-8 metres makes the park accessible to reasonably confident snorkellers, not only certified divers. Both snorkel and dive operators in St. George’s and Grand Anse run trips to Molinere Bay.

Aquanauts Grenada and Dive Grenada (both based at Grand Anse) are the established operators. Snorkel trips cost around USD $50-70 per person including equipment, boat transport, and a guide. Dive trips (two-tank, combining the sculpture park with other sites) run USD $90-120. Both operators are PADI-affiliated.

The bay is a marine protected area. Hawksbill turtles are frequently seen. Stingrays rest partially buried in the sand between sculptures. The sandy bottom warrants slow attention.

Underwater cameras (waterproof or in a housing) are essential. Natural light is adequate to about 4-5 metres; a small torch improves colour at depth.

What You’ll See

Taylor’s figures depict people in everyday situations: a ring of children, a man reading a newspaper, a circle of adults. The details that were sharp in 2006 have been softened by coral and sponge growth into something that now looks as though it grew rather than was placed. Some figures are more overgrown than others; the older installations in the shallower sections are the most dramatically colonised.

The sculptures are designed as permanent structures; touching them damages coral growth and is discouraged.

Grenada Beyond the Bay

St. George’s is one of the better-looking capital cities in the Eastern Caribbean: a horseshoe harbour with Georgian brick buildings on the hillside and Fort George at the entrance. The Saturday morning market sells fresh spices, nutmeg products (Grenada produces 20% of the world’s nutmeg supply), cocoa pods, and produce. Buy spices at the market rather than the airport.

Grand Anse Beach, 2km of white sand south of St. George’s, is where most tourist accommodation concentrates. Spice Island Beach Resort is the luxury end (suites from USD $800/night). True Blue Bay Resort is smaller and genuinely quieter at USD $200-300/night with a good restaurant.

Annandale Waterfall, 8km inland, is a 10-metre fall into a natural pool. The walk from the road is 10 minutes. Local swimmers dive from the rocks; the pool is clear and worth the stop.

Getting There

Maurice Bishop International Airport receives direct flights from London Gatwick (British Airways, approximately 9 hours), New York, Toronto, and several Caribbean hubs. The dry season from December to May produces the best underwater visibility. A taxi from the airport to Grand Anse takes 20 minutes and costs around EC$50 (USD $18).