Mt Everest

In 2024, a National Geographic expedition found the partial remains of Andrew “Sandy” Irvine on the Rongbuk Glacier, reigniting one of mountaineering’s oldest arguments: did George Mallory and Irvine reach Everest’s summit in 1924, nearly 30 years before Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? We may never know. But that unresolved question (who was truly first) says everything about what draws people to the world’s highest mountain. It is not just a peak. It is a puzzle that has consumed lives for a century.

You do not need to be a climber to feel its pull. The Khumbu region around Everest rewards travellers at every level, from day-walkers in Namche Bazaar to trekkers grinding up to 5,364 metres at Base Camp. What you need is time, a solid pair of legs, and a realistic sense of your own body.

Getting There

Flights to the region arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu. From there, most trekkers take a short domestic flight onward to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, the practical starting point for the Everest Base Camp trek. That Lukla flight is notorious (the runway ends at a cliff) and delays are common, especially in October and April when cloud cover descends without warning.

Round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla currently run around $350 to $450 USD. An important logistical note: during peak season (April to May and October to November), these flights depart from Manthali/Ramechhap Airport, roughly a 4 to 5 hour drive east of Kathmandu. The Ramechhap one-way fare is roughly $186 USD, so factor in an early morning taxi or shared jeep from Kathmandu the night before. Book those domestic flights at least two to three months ahead, as they fill fast and alternatives are few.

Lukla sits at 2,860 metres. You will feel the altitude the moment you step off the plane. Most guides recommend adding rest days at Namche Bazaar (3,440m) and Dingboche (4,410m) rather than pushing straight through, even if you feel fine.

Trekking Permits and Costs

Since September 2025, Nepal raised the Everest climbing permit to $15,000 USD per person, up from $11,000. For trekkers (not climbers), the costs are far more manageable: the Sagarmatha National Park entry permit runs about 3,000 NPR (roughly $23 USD), and you need a TIMS card (Trekkers’ Information Management System), available in Kathmandu.

For those with full summit ambitions in 2026, the total expedition cost typically ranges from $45,000 to $130,000, depending on the operator and support level. New regulations also now require proof of prior experience on a peak above 7,000 metres, and a mandatory guide for every two climbers on peaks above 8,000 metres. Nepal introduced these rules after years of overcrowded summits and avoidable deaths.

For most visitors, none of this applies. The Base Camp trek is unregulated beyond the national park permits, and you can walk it independently or with a guide.

Where to Stay

Tea houses line the trail from Lukla all the way to Gorakshep, the last settlement before Base Camp. These are family-run lodges where a basic room runs $5 to $20 USD per night. At Gorakshep, expect $7 to $50 depending on the season and what amenities remain functional at altitude. Budget roughly $30 per person per day for accommodation and meals combined.

Namche Bazaar deserves a mention on its own. It is the main commercial hub of the Khumbu and a proper town by Himalayan standards, with a bakery, a gear shop, an Irish pub, and wifi that works tolerably well. The Everest View Hotel above Namche, at 3,880 metres, is the highest luxury hotel in the world and offers jaw-dropping views toward Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Expect to pay $120 to $250 per night. Worth one night if the budget allows, even if you are not trekking higher.

The Yeti Mountain Home lodges (located in Phakding, Namche, Kongde, and Thame) are a step above standard tea houses: private bathrooms, solar heating, and reliable meals. Rooms run $80 to $150. If you have been on long treks before and know you sleep better with a real pillow, the premium is worth it.

For budget trekkers, the Namaste Guest House in Lukla is a solid first-night choice after an anxious flight in. Simple food, friendly staff, and it gets you out of the airport bustle quickly.

Where to Eat

Tea house menus follow a familiar pattern along the trail: dal bhat (rice with lentils and vegetables), noodle soup, Tibetan bread, egg dishes, and imported snacks at increasingly painful prices. Dal bhat is the genuine local staple and the best value: many tea houses offer unlimited refills to trekkers who order it.

At Everest Base Camp itself, the Tibetan Kitchen serves momos, thukpa noodle soup, and tsampa (roasted barley flour), all reliably warming at an altitude where your appetite tends to desert you. Eat slowly and drink more water than you think you need.

Namche has options that border on real restaurants. There are pizza places and cafes that serve filter coffee rather than Nescafe, which at this altitude feels genuinely civilised. Prices are high by Nepali standards, but reasonable in absolute terms.

One practical note: card payment is not available beyond Namche Bazaar, and even in Namche it is unreliable. Carry sufficient Nepali rupees in small notes from Kathmandu, where ATMs are plentiful. The ATMs in Namche and Lukla exist but should not be counted on.

What to Do

Trek to Base Camp: The classic 12 to 14 day round trip from Lukla to Base Camp (5,364m) and back is the main event. It passes through Phakding, Namche, Tengboche (with its monastery above the treeline), Dingboche, Lobuche, and finally Gorakshep before reaching the glacial rubble of Base Camp itself. Most trekkers arrive outside climbing season and find the camp largely abandoned; the views of the Khumbu Icefall above, and the sheer scale of the mountain, remain startling.

Kalapatthar: If you have one objective beyond Base Camp, make it this 5,643 metre viewpoint above Gorakshep. Everest’s summit is actually hard to see from Base Camp (the icefall blocks the upper mountain), but from Kalapatthar the view is unobstructed and immense. Go at dawn, before the clouds build.

Tengboche Monastery: At 3,867 metres, this is one of the most important Buddhist monasteries in the Himalayas, rebuilt after a 1989 fire destroyed much of the original structure. The morning and evening prayer sessions are open to respectful visitors. It is the kind of place that earns an extra night on the itinerary.

Gokyo Lakes and the Three Passes: Experienced trekkers who want to avoid the standard trail should consider the Three Passes route (Renjo La, Cho La, Kongma La), which links the Gokyo valley with the EBC trail. It is harder, more remote, and dramatically less crowded. The Gokyo Ri viewpoint offers a perspective on Everest arguably better than Kalapatthar.

Practical Logistics

The best trekking seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Spring coincides with the climbing season and means more activity at Base Camp; autumn offers clearer skies on average. Winter treks are possible but cold and isolated, with many tea houses closed above Namche. Avoid the monsoon (June to August), when trails become slippery and leeches appear below 3,000 metres.

Acclimatisation is not optional. The standard advice (do not ascend more than 300 to 500 metres per day above 3,000 metres, and build in rest days) exists because altitude sickness kills people who ignore it. Symptoms of acute mountain sickness include persistent headache, nausea, and loss of appetite. If symptoms worsen rather than improve after 24 hours of rest, descend. No view is worth ignoring that rule.

Tipping culture exists but is not aggressive. A rough guideline: 10 to 15% in restaurants in Kathmandu; for guides, around $15 to $20 USD per day is standard; for porters, $10 to $15 USD per day. Cash only.

Travel insurance must explicitly cover high-altitude trekking and helicopter evacuation. A helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu costs several thousand dollars without coverage. Check the fine print before you leave home.

Pack lighter than you think necessary. Porters carry an ethical maximum of 25 kg, and you will feel every gram above 4,000 metres yourself. Rent a down jacket and sleeping bag in Kathmandu or Namche rather than shipping gear across the world.

The Khumbu region is Buddhist and the culture deserves more than a passing glance. Walk clockwise around mani stones and chortens, remove shoes before entering monasteries, and ask before photographing people. The locals here have been hosting trekkers for decades and the relationship works best when it is genuinely mutual.