Munich: Bavaria’s Capital Done Right

Munich is clean, well-connected, expensive by German standards, and full of genuinely excellent things to eat, drink, and see. Neuschwanstein Castle is two hours away and worth the trip, but the city itself justifies several days without needing to leave.

What to See

Marienplatz is the main square at the city’s heart, with the Neues Rathaus (new town hall, from 1905) occupying most of the north side. The Glockenspiel on the tower performs at 11am and noon (and 5pm in summer) — a mechanical display with jousting knights and barrel-makers dancing. It takes about 10 minutes and the square fills completely. Worth catching once; no need to arrange your day around it.

Viktualienmarkt behind the Rathaus is a proper food market operating since 1807, with stalls selling Bavarian sausages, cheese, bread, beer, and produce. The beer garden in the centre of the market is genuinely pleasant for a mid-morning litre of something cold.

Englischer Garten is one of Europe’s largest urban parks: 3.7km² north of the centre, with a Chinese pagoda beer garden (capacity 7,000, takes cash only), a Japanese tea house, and the Eisbach surf wave — a standing wave in a channel where surfers ride year-round. The surfers are worth a 15-minute watch.

The Deutsches Museum on an island in the Isar is the largest science and technology museum in the world. The aviation, mining, and marine technology sections are the best; it’s too large to see properly in one day. Entry around €15.

The Alte Pinakothek holds one of the finest collections of Old Master paintings in Europe (Dürer, Rubens, Titian, Raphael). Entry is only €1 on Sundays. The Neue Pinakothek next door covers 19th-century art and the Pinakothek der Moderne handles 20th century onward.

Beer Gardens

Munich’s beer gardens are a genuine cultural institution and one of the most enjoyable things the city does. You can bring your own food (genuinely — this is traditional), purchase beer from the garden, and sit at communal tables. The best:

Augustinerkeller on Arnulfstrasse is the most authentic, with an old garden and excellent beer from the Augustiner brewery. Hofbräuhaus is the famous one but overrun with tourists. Chinesischer Turm in the Englischer Garten has the best setting.

Where to Eat

Beyond the beer gardens: Tantris in Schwabing has been a serious fine dining address since 1971. Geisels Werneckhof is the more contemporary option at that level. For something affordable and excellent, Donisl on Marienplatz does a good Obazda (Bavarian cheese spread) and classic dishes, though the location makes it tourist-adjacent.

Where to Stay

Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten on Maximilianstrasse is the grand historic choice. The Charles Hotel near the Lenbach art gallery is the more contemporary option. Reasonable mid-range: Hotel Theresia in the Maxvorstadt neighbourhood is small, well-run, and within walking distance of the museums.

Getting There

Munich Airport (MUC) is connected to the city centre by the S-Bahn (S1 and S8 lines, about 40 minutes, around €13). High-speed trains from Frankfurt take around 3 hours; from Berlin, about 4 hours.