Reims Cathedral: The Coronation Church

Notre-Dame de Reims was where French kings were crowned for nearly a thousand years — 25 consecutive monarchs, from Louis VIII in 1223 to Charles X in 1825. The cathedral was built specifically for that purpose, which explains the extraordinary emphasis on the west facade: three deep portals covered in over 2,300 stone figures, a massive rose window, and the famous “smiling angel” at the left doorway (La Souriante de Reims), which became the symbol of the city after the original was damaged in World War I.

The cathedral itself dates from 1211, though modifications continued for centuries. It took a devastating hit in 1914 when German artillery bombardment set the roof on fire and caused scaffolding packed with straw (used by troops) to burn, melting much of the original stained glass and damaging the stonework. The restoration, partly funded by John D. Rockefeller Jr. in the 1920s, replaced the medieval glass in some windows with new glass by Marc Chagall — a startling and effective decision.

What to See Inside

Chagall’s windows in the axial chapel behind the high altar are the most visually striking element of the interior. The brilliant blues and the loose expressionist style are completely out of keeping with medieval convention, and the juxtaposition works in a way that seems improbable. The central window depicts the life of Abraham, with the Tree of Jesse and Crucifixion flanking it.

The coronation rite display in one of the side chapels shows the regalia and explains the ritual. It’s modest in scale but provides context.

Entry to the cathedral is free. A tower climb (available at certain times) gives access to the roof and to closer views of the architectural details. Check the cathedral website for current access and opening hours.

The Palace of Tau

Immediately adjacent, the Palais du Tau (a UNESCO site along with the cathedral) was the archbishop’s palace where kings stayed before their coronation. It now functions as a museum holding original stone sculpture from the cathedral’s exterior (replaced by copies in situ) and treasures from the royal coronation ceremonies, including Charlemagne’s talisman and the coronation mantle of Charles X. Entry around €8.

Champagne

Reims is the capital of the Champagne wine region, and several major houses have their cellars directly under the city, in chalk tunnels (crayères) that maintain a constant 12°C temperature year-round. Veuve Clicquot, Pommery, Mumm, and Taittinger all offer cellar tours that cover the méthode champenoise and typically include a tasting at the end. Tours cost €20-35 depending on the house and tasting included. Book in advance; summer availability is limited.

Pommery has one of the most impressive cellars (the tunnels are enormous) and has installed contemporary art installations throughout the chalk galleries, which makes for an unusual combination.

Where to Eat

Le Foch on Boulevard Foch is the well-regarded local restaurant for traditional Champenois cooking — pike perch with Champagne sauce, potée champenoise. Expensive; worth it for a proper meal. For something lighter, the brasseries around the Place du Forum near the cathedral serve adequate food at normal French prices.

Getting There

Reims is 45 minutes from Paris Gare de l’Est by TGV (trains run roughly every hour, around €25-45 depending on time booked). It’s a very manageable day trip from Paris, though staying overnight lets you spend an evening at the cathedral when it’s quieter and lit differently.