Old Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena’s Rafael Nuñez International Airport is 3 kilometres from the walled city. That proximity, the combination of a working Caribbean port town and a near-perfectly preserved Spanish colonial centre, and a food scene that has been quietly catching up with Bogota over the past decade, make this one of the more underrated city breaks in Latin America. Most guides lead with the obvious: colourful buildings, hot weather, salsa. The less obvious things are worth more attention.

The Walled City: What to Know Before You Walk In

The walled city of Cartagena (Ciudad Amurallada) was founded in 1533 by the Spanish commander Pedro de Heredia on the site of an indigenous Calamarí village. By the 17th century it was the primary export port for Bolivian silver travelling to Spain, which made it simultaneously the wealthiest city on the Caribbean coast and the most raided. The walls, begun in the 1600s, were built in response to repeated attacks by English, French, and Dutch corsairs. They are among the best-preserved colonial fortifications in the Americas, which is why UNESCO listed the site in 1984.

The city divides into two main historical neighbourhoods: El Centro, which held government buildings, the cathedral, and the residences of the colonial elite; and San Diego, historically the merchant and craftsmen’s quarter. Walking between them takes 20 minutes on a direct route or considerably longer if you stop. The streets are narrow and the architecture is generally excellent but dense. Give it a morning on foot without a fixed itinerary if time allows.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

The Castillo San Felipe, on the hill of San Lazaro east of the walled city, is the largest Spanish colonial fortress built in the Americas. Construction began in 1636 and continued through the mid-18th century. The tunnel network inside the walls was designed so that sound would carry to allow defenders to detect approaching attackers. The fortress repelled a British assault led by Admiral Edward Vernon in 1741, when Vernon’s force of over 25,000 men was turned back by a Colombian and Spanish garrison. It remains one of the most significant military defeats in British colonial history and is rarely mentioned outside specialist circles.

Admission is around 25,000 to 30,000 Colombian pesos per person (approximately $6 to $7 USD at 2026 rates). Go in the early morning before the heat intensifies; the ramparts are exposed.

Getsemani

Getsemani, the neighbourhood immediately outside the walled city walls to the south, has changed substantially over the past ten years. Once avoided by tourists, it is now the area with the best street art, the lowest prices, and a more local atmosphere than the hotels-and-boutiques density of the old city itself. Plaza de la Trinidad is its centre, with food carts, juice stalls, and cafes that open early. Accommodation here is significantly cheaper than inside the walls and the walking distance into the old city is five minutes.

Where to Eat

La Cevicheria on Calle Stuart is consistently the most recommended restaurant in Cartagena for seafood, and the reputation holds. The ceviche uses local fish and Caribbean citrus and is not the same style as Peruvian ceviche. It fills quickly in the evenings; arrive at opening or accept a wait. Carmen (in the San Diego quarter) and Alma (inside the Hotel Casa San Agustín) are the two most-discussed upscale options, both at the upper end of Colombian restaurant pricing. For everyday eating at low cost, the market area near the bus terminal (Terminal de Transportes) and the streets around Getsemani have set-menu lunches (almuerzos del dia) for under 15,000 pesos.

Café San Alberto on Plaza de San Diego serves some of the better single-origin Colombian coffee in a city that generally serves good coffee.

Where to Stay

Hotels inside the walled city are largely housed in converted colonial mansions: exposed brick, internal courtyards, four-poster beds. Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara, converted from a 17th-century convent, is the most celebrated luxury option and prices accordingly. Casa San Agustín is smaller and somewhat more personal, with a central courtyard and a good restaurant.

For mid-range options, San Diego and Getsemani have a growing number of well-run boutique guesthouses starting from around $80 to $120 USD per night for a double in 2026. Budget options cluster in Getsemani.

Transport and Getting Around

The airport is so close that a taxi into the old city takes 10 to 15 minutes and costs around 20,000 to 25,000 pesos on the fixed-rate zone ticket system available inside the terminal. Do not negotiate with drivers outside the terminal; use the official booth inside.

Within the old city and Getsemani, walking is the only practical option. Streets are too narrow and irregular for efficient driving. For the Castillo San Felipe, taxis are the fastest option (5 minutes, around 8,000 to 10,000 pesos) or a 20-minute walk uphill in the heat.

The Rosario Islands, a coral archipelago 35 kilometres southwest of the city, are reached by tourist boat from the Muelle de la Bodeguita. The crossing takes about 45 minutes to an hour. It is a reasonable day trip with clear water and reasonable snorkelling, but the boats are heavily trafficked and the islands themselves are quite crowded at peak times. An early morning departure is significantly better.

When to Go

December to April is the dry season with clearest skies and lowest humidity, also the highest tourist volume and peak hotel pricing. June through September sees lower crowds, a reliable trade wind that cuts the heat, and meaningfully lower accommodation rates, with only occasional afternoon rain. July and August have the lightest tourist traffic relative to how pleasant the conditions actually are. Avoid the week between Christmas and mid-January if possible: cruise ship arrivals, domestic tourism, and pricing all peak simultaneously, with 847,000 cruise passengers expected at Cartagena in 2026 alone.

A Practical Note on Safety

The old city and Getsemani are safe for tourists by any reasonable standard. Petty theft, particularly phone snatching, is the primary risk. Standard precautions apply: keep phones off the street when not in use, avoid displaying expensive cameras unnecessarily, and use ride-share apps (Uber, InDriver, DiDi) or booked taxis for night travel outside the central area. Cartagena’s murder rate dropped to 18.3 per 100,000 in 2025, making it one of the safer major cities in Colombia.