Palawan: The Philippines’ Best Island, and How to Navigate It

Palawan is a long, narrow island southwest of Manila, with limestone karst formations, clear water, and a wildlife corridor that has made it the environmental benchmark for the Philippines. It is also being developed aggressively. El Nido and Coron both have significant tourist infrastructure now; what you won’t get is solitude on the most popular routes. What you will get, if you pick your timing and your operator carefully, is some of the best island scenery in Southeast Asia.

El Nido

El Nido town is at the northern tip of the main island. The surrounding Bacuit Archipelago has around 45 islands and islets, most consisting of sheer limestone cliffs dropping into turquoise water with hidden lagoons behind them.

Island-hopping tours are grouped into four routes (A, B, C, D), each covering different islands. Tour A (Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, Shimizu Island) is the most popular and most crowded. Tour C covers Helicopter Island and Secret Beach and is often significantly quieter on weekdays.

A shared island-hop costs PHP 1,500-2,000 per person including lunch. Private boat hire runs PHP 5,000-8,000 per day. The difference in experience is notable: private boats let you set the pace, arrive at sites before the shared tours, and stay longer.

The most notorious issue in El Nido is tourism overload at peak season (December-April). At Big Lagoon in December, you may share the water with 50+ kayaks simultaneously. Going in May-June before the rains intensify, or September, gets you far more space.

Coron, Busuanga Island

Coron is technically on a different island (Busuanga) north of the main Palawan island, reachable by flight from Manila (about 1 hour) or by ferry. The standout activity here is wreck diving. Eleven Japanese warships sunk in a US air raid in September 1944 lie on the seafloor here at depths of 10-40 metres. The Okikawa Maru, a massive tanker, has its deck at 15 metres and is covered in soft coral. For divers, Coron is the main reason to come to Palawan.

Non-divers find Coron useful mainly as a base for boat trips to nearby beaches (Kayangan Lake is the most photographed, a freshwater lake above sea level on a cliff-ringed island) and the hot springs at Maquinit (PHP 200 entry, 39°C spring water, open 24 hours).

Puerto Princesa

The provincial capital is the main entry point for flights from Manila. The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River (Underground River), a UNESCO site about 80km north of town, is the most visited single attraction in Palawan. Mandatory permits and guided boat trips through the cave: roughly PHP 1,500-2,000 all-in through operators in town. The 1.5km lit section is impressive; the deeper cave isn’t open to visitors.

Palawan is the boundary between the Sulu Sea and the South China Sea; the seafood here is excellent and cheap by any standard. Crocodile farm and butterfly garden near Puerto Princesa are worth skipping; the underground river is the only attraction in this area that earns the journey.

Getting Around

Flights from Manila to Puerto Princesa (1.5 hours), El Nido (1 hour), and Coron (1 hour). Buses from Puerto Princesa to El Nido take 5-6 hours and cost around PHP 250-400. The road is now paved. Van transfers are faster and cost PHP 600-800.