The Pantanal: The Best Wildlife Destination You’re Not Going To

The Pantanal is the world’s largest tropical wetland, roughly 150,000-200,000 square kilometres depending on season, covering parts of western Brazil (Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul states), eastern Bolivia, and north-eastern Paraguay. About 90% of it floods seasonally. It’s home to the world’s largest concentration of jaguar, the capybara in numbers you will not believe, caimans so numerous you could step on them, and over 650 bird species.

It gets a fraction of the visitors the Amazon does. This is partly because it’s harder to reach and partly because people don’t know about it. Both of those things work strongly in its favour.

What You’ll See

The Pantanal has a higher density of jaguars than anywhere else on Earth, and unlike in most other habitats they can be spotted reliably. The main area for jaguar sightings is along the Três Irmãos and Cuiabá rivers in the northern Pantanal. Operators running small boats along these channels in the dry season routinely spot multiple individuals per day. This is about as good as large predator sightings get outside Africa.

Hyacinth macaws — the largest parrot in the world, an intense cobalt blue — are relatively common here and were brought back from near-extinction partly through conservation work in the Pantanal. Giant anteaters, giant river otters, marsh deer, tapirs, and ocelots round out what amounts to an extraordinary mammal list.

When to Go

The dry season (July to October) is the best time for wildlife. Animals concentrate around remaining water sources, vegetation is low, and access by road and boat is much better. The flood season (November to May) is harder to navigate but the birdlife is exceptional and the landscape transforms.

July and August are peak season. Book 6+ months ahead for the better lodges.

Getting There

The main gateway to the northern Pantanal is Cuiabá, the capital of Mato Grosso state, accessible by regular flights from São Paulo, Brasília, and other Brazilian cities. From Cuiabá, the Transpantaneira Highway (mostly dirt, 145km south) runs to Porto Jofre on the Cuiabá River — the centre of jaguar country. The drive takes 4-5 hours in the dry season.

The southern Pantanal is accessed via Campo Grande (Mato Grosso do Sul) or Corumbá on the Bolivian border.

Where to Stay

Lodge accommodation on the Transpantaneira Highway ranges from basic fazendas (farms) to well-equipped wildlife lodges. SouthWild Pantanal Lodge and Araras Eco Lodge have strong reputations for naturalist guides and comfortable accommodation. Expect to pay $300-600 USD per person per night at the dedicated wildlife lodges, which typically includes guiding, meals, and boat excursions.

Budget options exist in the form of simple fazenda stays, particularly in the southern Pantanal around the Miranda river area.

The Transpantaneira Road

The highway itself, lined with over 120 wooden bridges in varying states of repair, is worth treating as a wildlife transect. Stop on each bridge and look down: caimans below, herons fishing alongside, kingfishers going past at eye level. Do it slowly.