Pembrokeshire: The Only Coastal National Park in Britain

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park was designated in 1952 specifically for its coastline, which makes it unique among British national parks. The 299km Coast Path from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south takes around 15 days to walk end-to-end; the total elevation gain is roughly equivalent to climbing Everest. Individual day sections work well without any commitment to the full distance.

The western tip of the park, around St Davids and the Dale Peninsula, has the strongest combination of scenery, interesting inland town, and offshore island access.

Skomer Island

Skomer is 3km offshore from the Dale Peninsula, accessible by 15-minute boat crossing from Martin’s Haven (April through October). It holds the largest Manx shearwater colony in the world, approximately 350,000 breeding pairs, and around 6,000 puffin pairs in the April-July season. On the evening boat back to the mainland, the shearwaters return to their burrows in such numbers that the sky darkens.

Day trips run daily (weather permitting) from April 1 to October 31. Book in advance at pembrokeshireislands.co.uk, crossings sell out weeks ahead during puffin season. Adult tickets: £26 (boat) plus £15 island landing fee. No café on the island; bring your own food and water.

Best Day Walk Sections

St Davids Head loop (8km, 3-4 hours): From Whitesands Beach car park, rounds the headland with views to Ramsey Island, passes Iron Age hill fort remains. Consistently rated among the best short walks in Wales.

Marloes Peninsula (7km, 3 hours): Flat to moderate, with views of Skomer and Skokholm from above the cliff line. Good chance of seeing grey seals on the rocks below.

Barafundle Bay (5km return from Stackpole): No road access, no ice cream vans, fine sand between limestone cliffs. Frequently listed as one of the best beaches in Britain. The National Trust manages the estate approach.

Green Bridge of Wales: A natural limestone arch 24 metres high, the most photographed coastal feature in Pembrokeshire. Access from St Govan’s car park; the military range at Castlemartin means the area is sometimes closed for firing exercises, check pembrokeshire.gov.uk before travelling.

St Davids

The smallest city in Britain (city by virtue of its cathedral, population around 1,600). The cathedral was founded in the 12th century on the site of a 6th-century monastery established by the patron saint of Wales. It sits in a hollow below the town, an unusual design intended to hide it from Viking raiding parties approaching from the sea. The adjacent Bishop’s Palace ruins are as large as the cathedral and free to enter.

Cwtch on Cross Square uses Welsh produce, Pembrokeshire new potatoes (a Protected Designation of Origin), Cardigan Bay lobster, local beef. Dinner mains £18-28. Book ahead for weekends.

Twr y Felin Hotel in St Davids is a converted windmill tower with 21 rooms and a good art collection, from around £170-240 per night.

Getting There

By train to Haverfordwest (2.5 hours from Cardiff), then bus 411 to St Davids (50 minutes). By road: approximately 4.5 hours from London, 2 hours from Cardiff. The road infrastructure is good to Haverfordwest and narrows from there.

Coasteering, scrambling along cliff faces into the sea, was essentially invented in Pembrokeshire in the 1980s and is still the best place to try it. TYF in St Davids runs sessions from £40 per person.