Perhentian Islands: Southeast Asia’s Best Budget Dive Destination

The Perhentian Islands (Perhentian Besar, the big island, and Perhentian Kecil, the small one) sit off northeast Malaysia in Terengganu, 21km from the mainland. The marine park contains some of the best snorkelling and diving in Southeast Asia at prices that make Bali look expensive. Water visibility regularly exceeds 20 metres. Green and hawksbill turtles are present to the point where most snorkel outings will produce multiple sightings. Black-tip and white-tip reef sharks are frequently encountered in the shallows of Turtle Beach on Besar. The marine park entry fee (MYR 30, around $7) is collected by speedboat operators on the mainland crossing.

The islands are closed to tourism from mid-November through February due to the Northeast Monsoon. The open season is approximately March through November; May through September is the most reliable weather window.

Getting There

Depart from Kuala Besut on the Terengganu coast: 1 hour by taxi from Kota Bharu (MYR 50-60), or overnight bus from Kuala Lumpur (8-9 hours). Speedboats run 08:00-17:00 in season; 30 minutes, around MYR 35-45 one-way. Last boats back to the mainland run around 17:00. Missing the last boat means paying for another night.

No ATMs on either island. Bring all the cash you’ll need for your entire stay.

Choosing Between the Two Islands

Perhentian Kecil (small island) has the backpacker character: Long Beach on the east side is the main budget strip with beach bungalows, dive operators, and social evenings. Coral Bay on the west is calmer for families. Genuinely affordable.

Perhentian Besar (big island) is marginally more upscale (which still means nothing expensive by international standards), fewer backpackers, and better coral directly accessible from the main beach. Turtle Beach on the east side is where sharks and turtles concentrate in the shallows.

There’s no regular boat service between the two islands. Choose before you arrive.

Diving and Snorkelling

Around 20 dive sites. Fish Point (north of Besar) for schooling fish and reef sharks; Shark Point (south of Kecil) for guitar sharks resting on sandy patches; Tuna Bay for barracuda schools. Two-dive trips with equipment run MYR 80-100. PADI Open Water courses around MYR 900-1,100.

Snorkelling from the beaches themselves is good enough without taking additional boat trips. The coral in front of Turtle Beach on Besar is accessible by swimming. Bring your own mask if possible; rental quality varies.

Practical Notes

Terengganu is governed by an Islamic party and alcohol is not officially sold on the islands. Several tourist-facing spots operate quietly outside this; beer is available if you ask discreetly. Don’t expect a bar culture.

Food on both islands is straightforward: rice and noodle dishes at MYR 10-15, fresh fish priced by weight (MYR 25-40 for a whole grilled fish). Mama’s Restaurant on Long Beach (Kecil) and Watercolours Cafe on Besar both have consistently good reputations.

Accommodation on Kecil: budget fan rooms with shared bathrooms from MYR 40-80 on Long Beach. On Besar: Coral View Island Resort has the best waterfront position from around MYR 200-350 per night.

Book in advance for July and August (school holiday peak for both Malaysian and European visitors).