Perhentian Islands: Southeast Asia’s Best Budget Dive Destination

The Perhentian Islands - Perhentian Besar (Big Perhentian) and Perhentian Kecil (Small Perhentian) - sit off the northeast coast of Malaysia in Terengganu, about 21 km from the mainland. The two islands together cover about 20 sq km and between them hold a marine park with some of the best snorkelling and diving in Southeast Asia at prices that make Bali and the Maldives look absurd.

The water here is extraordinary. Visibility regularly exceeds 20 metres and coral coverage in most snorkelling spots is good to excellent. Green and hawksbill turtles are common to the point where most snorkel outings will produce multiple turtle sightings. Black-tip and white-tip reef sharks are frequently seen in shallow water near the beaches on Besar. The marine park entry fee (MYR 30, around $7) is charged by speedboat operators on the crossing from the mainland.

Getting There

The departure point is Kuala Besut, a small coastal town on the Terengganu coast. From Kota Bharu (1 hour north by taxi, MYR 50-60) or by bus from Kuala Lumpur (8-9 hours overnight). Several companies run speedboats from Kuala Besut to the islands from approximately 08:00 to 17:00 in season. The crossing takes 30 minutes and costs around MYR 35-45 one-way. Last boats back from the islands to the mainland run around 17:00; missing this means paying for another night’s accommodation.

The islands are closed to tourism from mid-November through February due to the Northeast Monsoon. Sea conditions become dangerous and resorts close entirely. The open season runs approximately March through November, with May through September the most reliable weather window.

The Two Islands: Which to Choose

Perhentian Kecil (Small Island) has a younger, more backpacker-oriented atmosphere. Long Beach on the east side is the main budget accommodation strip with beach bungalows, dive operators, and a lively social scene in the evenings. Coral Bay on the west side is calmer and better for families. Kecil is noticeably more affordable.

Perhentian Besar (Big Island) has more upscale accommodation (relatively speaking - nothing here is expensive by international standards), fewer backpackers, and better coral directly accessible from the main beach. Turtle Beach on the east side of Besar is where the sharks and turtles concentrate in the shallows.

There’s no boat service between the two islands (rental boat only), so choose before you arrive and commit.

Diving and Snorkelling

The Perhentians have around 20 dive sites. Fish Point on the north side of Besar is good for schooling fish and reef sharks. Shark Point south of Kecil regularly produces guitar sharks resting on sandy patches. Tuna Bay produces barracuda schools. Competitive pricing between dive operators keeps costs around MYR 80-100 for a two-dive trip with equipment. PADI Open Water courses cost around MYR 900-1,100.

Snorkelling is good enough from the main beaches without taking any additional boat trip. The stretch of coral in front of Turtle Beach on Besar is accessible by swimming from the beach itself. Bring your own snorkel mask if possible; the rental ones vary considerably in quality.

The Alcohol Situation

Terengganu is a state governed under PAS (an Islamic party), and Perhentian follows state-level restrictions. Alcohol is not officially sold anywhere on the islands. In practice, several of the more tourist-facing resorts and bars operate quietly outside this rule and beer is available if you ask discreetly. Don’t expect a bar culture; plan accordingly.

Where to Eat

Food is available at most accommodation guesthouses and at a handful of independent restaurants along the beaches. Quality varies. The standard options: rice and noodle dishes at around MYR 10-15, fresh fish priced by weight, usually MYR 25-40 for a grilled whole fish.

On Long Beach (Kecil), Mama’s Restaurant is consistently recommended for fresh fish and consistent cooking. Rock Restaurant on the western bay does reasonable Western food and decent fish curries.

On Besar, the Watercolours Cafe near the main beach junction has the most consistent food and better coffee than anywhere else on either island.

Where to Stay

Besar: Coral View Island Resort has the best waterfront position on the island with accommodation from around MYR 200-350 per night. The dive operator attached to the resort is well-regarded.

Kecil: Bubu Long Beach has above-average rooms for the island at around MYR 150-250 per night. For genuine budget: several guesthouses on Long Beach offer fan rooms with shared bathrooms for MYR 40-80. They’re basic; the trade-off for the price is being on one of the best beach fronts in Malaysia.

Practical Notes

No ATMs on either island. Bring enough cash for your entire stay. Debit cards are not accepted except at a few of the more established resorts. The ferry operators in Kuala Besut will help you find a guesthouse if you arrive without a booking, which is fine outside peak season. July and August peak (school holidays in Malaysia and most of Europe) should be booked in advance.

The water supply on both islands comes from rainwater catchment and desalination. Go easy on shower usage.