Pizza in Naples: What to Order, Where to Go, and What to Ignore

Neapolitan pizza is a protected designation under EU law. The Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN) certifies pizzerias and defines the rules: San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte or buffalo mozzarella, 00 flour dough, wood-fired oven at 485 degrees Celsius, cooked in 60-90 seconds. The resulting base is soft and slightly charred, with a raised cornicione (crust) that has some chew to it. The centre is wet. This is not a design flaw.

Naples produces some very good pizza and rather a lot of mediocre pizza aimed at tourists. Knowing which is which matters.

Where to Eat Pizza

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele on Via Cesare Sersale is the fundamentalist position: they serve two pizzas (Margherita and Marinara), they have been doing so since 1870, and the Margherita here is the reference point for the form. A pizza costs €5-7. The queue outside is real; arrive before 13:00 or after 14:30 to minimise it. No table service in the traditional sense; you’ll be assigned a shared bench.

Pizzeria Starita in the Materdei neighbourhood (Via Materdei 27) is less famous and slightly more relaxed. They fry as well as bake; the pizza fritta (fried pizza calzone) with ricotta and pork ciccioli is worth having if you want to try the style that predates wood-fired ovens. Around €5-9.

Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali is the celebrated option, run by Gino Sorbillo, and the queues are longer than Da Michele’s. The pizza is very good. The fame attracts more tourists than the others. If you’re visiting on a weekday in shoulder season, it’s manageable; in August on a Saturday, plan 45 minutes to get in.

The Via dei Tribunali Corridor

The long straight street of Via dei Tribunali runs through the old city centre (Spaccanapoli). Within this stretch are more pizzerias per hundred metres than anywhere else in Italy. Walk it slowly at lunchtime, note who has local workers eating rather than tourists photographing, and make your choice accordingly. Prices are €4-8 for a pizza throughout.

Other Naples Worth Knowing

The National Archaeological Museum (Piazza Museo, entry €20, closed Tuesdays) holds the best collection of Roman artefacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum, including mosaics, frescoes, and bronze sculpture. The Secret Cabinet (containing erotic art from Pompeii) requires requesting access from staff; it’s included in admission. Allow 3 hours.

Spaccanapoli itself is a long, straight street cutting through the historic centre, following the alignment of the ancient Greek city of Neapolis. The Cappella Sansevero just off it contains Giuseppe Sanmartino’s 1753 marble sculpture “Cristo Velato” (Veiled Christ): a figure of Christ under a marble veil so thinly carved it appears transparent. Admission €8; it’s worth it for this single piece.

Staying in Naples

Piazza Bellini area in the centro storico puts you walking distance from the main pizzerias. B&B Cappella Vecchia near Piazza dei Martiri has rooms from around €90/night and is consistently well-reviewed by travellers who prioritise location over amenities. Constantinopoli 104 is a converted palazzo with a courtyard pool, doubles from €130-180, and feels like the kind of place that hasn’t changed much in 20 years.

Getting Around

The city’s historic centre is compact and mostly walkable. The funicular from Via Toledo up to the Vomero hill costs €1.30 and is the easiest way up to Castel Sant’Elmo. Avoid taxis without meters; agree on a price before entering, or use ride-hailing apps.

The pizza at the airport is not worth eating. Wait until you reach the city.