Redwoods at Whakarewarewa: California Trees in a Rotorua Forest

In 1901, a small experimental plot of California coast redwoods was planted on the edge of Whakarewarewa State Forest near Rotorua, New Zealand. The experiment was straightforward: the New Zealand Forest Service wanted to know whether redwoods would grow in the North Island’s volcanic soil. They grew. By the 2020s, the original stand had trees reaching 65 metres, the tallest redwoods in the southern hemisphere, rising from a forest floor carpeted in fern with steam from Rotorua’s geothermal activity occasionally visible through the canopy.

This is a genuinely unusual combination. The trees are recognisably Sequoia sempervirens - the same coastal fog-belt species that grows to 100+ metres in California - but their setting is Maori heartland in a geothermal zone, a 15-minute drive from the centre of a city built on volcanic activity. The lake-filled crater landscape of Rotorua surrounds the forest. The combination doesn’t exist anywhere else.

The Treewalk and Ground Trails

The Redwoods Treewalk is the commercial attraction inside the forest: a series of suspension bridges linking platforms at approximately 12 metres off the ground, built among the redwood canopy. The walk covers 700 metres and takes 45-60 minutes. During the day it’s a good view of the forest structure - the buttressed redwood bases, the understory fern, the cathedral ceiling of canopy - but the night walk (seasonal, book ahead) is exceptional: the bridges are illuminated by artist David Trubridge’s lanterns, glowing amber and white through the trees in complete darkness. Night tickets are NZD $49-59 adult. Day tickets NZD $29-35.

The treewalk is private and ticketed; the wider forest is public and free. The Long Mile Loop (6.7 km, 90 minutes) through the original redwood stand is free walking trail and passes the oldest and largest trees. The Blue and Green Lake Loop (7.5 km) extends south through the plantation and emerges at two geothermal crater lakes. The Mountain Bike trails in the outer forest are world-class and draw international riders; Whakarewarewa has an extensive trail network with options from beginner to advanced.

The Geothermal Context

Rotorua sits on one of the most geothermally active zones in New Zealand, which is itself one of the most geothermally active countries on Earth. The sulphur smell is real and constant throughout the city. Lakes in the region range from cool and clear to boiling and acidic. The land occasionally forms new vents and collapses.

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, about 25 km south of Rotorua, is the best-value thermal attraction in the region: coloured hot springs (the champagne pool runs at 74°C and is ringed with bright orange), Artist’s Palette (a field of pastel-coloured silica and sulphur deposits), and the Lady Knox Geyser which erupts daily at 10:15 after a dose of soap introduced into the vent (the soap reduces the surface tension of the water; it’s a legitimate geothermal geyser triggered at a predictable time). Entry NZD $35, 3-4 hours to see thoroughly.

Te Puia adjacent to Whakarewarewa Forest contains the Pohutu Geyser, which erupts up to 20 times daily and reaches 30 metres. The site includes a Maori cultural centre with cultural performances (powhiri, poi, haka) and guided tours by Ngati Wahiao guides. Entry NZD $89 includes geyser viewing and cultural performance.

Where to Eat in Rotorua

Urbano Bistro on Lake Road is the best independent restaurant in the city: locally sourced lamb, venison, and fish done with precision. Mains NZD $38-55. Book ahead for weekends.

Atticus Finch on Eat Streat (the Tutanekai pedestrian strip) is the go-to for good craft beer and reliable food. Burgers, shared plates, good tap selection. Mains NZD $20-32.

Hangi at Tamaki Maori Village (30 minutes south of Rotorua) offers an authentic hangi feast - food slow-cooked in a pit over heated stones - alongside a guided evening cultural experience. Book in advance. Cost around NZD $130-150 per person including the cultural performance.

Where to Stay

Regent of Rotorua on Pukaki Street is the best mid-range hotel in the city, well-run, central, from around NZD $180-230 per night. Good breakfast.

Pullman Rotorua is the upscale option, from NZD $280, with spa facilities and clean contemporary rooms.

For something unusual, Koura Lodge (10 km from the centre, lakeside) offers exclusive-use accommodation on Lake Rotokakahi for groups wanting a private experience. Not cheap, but worth knowing about.

Budget travellers: Base Rotorua hostel on Hinemoa Street has dorm beds from NZD $30 and is well-maintained with good social spaces.

Getting to Rotorua

Rotorua Airport (ROT) has domestic flights from Auckland (55 minutes), Wellington, and Christchurch. InterCity buses run from Auckland (3.5 hours, NZD $30-50 depending on advance booking). From Auckland by car, the route via the Desert Road (SH1) or via Taupo (SH1 south to SH5) takes 3.5-4 hours. Rotorua is the most common overnight stop on the Auckland-Wellington self-drive route.