Reykjavik: Small City, Enormous Surroundings

Reykjavik has about 130,000 people and ranks among the smallest national capitals in the world. The city is entirely walkable in its centre; most of the main attractions are within 15 minutes of each other on foot. The city itself is pleasant and worth a day or two. But the main argument for visiting Reykjavik is that it sits at the edge of one of the most dramatically accessible natural landscapes on the planet, and most of that landscape is reachable by rental car within a few hours.

Iceland’s costs have increased steadily: a mid-range restaurant dinner in Reykjavik now runs 5,500-7,500 ISK per main course (roughly $40-55 USD), and a three-course meal can easily reach 20,000-28,000 ISK per person. Budget accordingly. The famous Baejarins Beztu hot dog stand near the harbour at around 820 ISK is not ironic; it is genuinely good.

In the City

Hallgrímskirkja is the 73-metre landmark church visible from most of the city. The lift to the top takes about 4 minutes and admission costs around 1,200 ISK. The view covers the bay, the mountains beyond Reykjavik, and enough suburban sprawl to remind you that Iceland has normal people living normal lives. The interior is worth entering for the pipe organ alone: 5,275 pipes installed in 1992, one of the largest in the world.

Harpa Concert Hall on the waterfront opened in 2011 with a striking geometric glass facade designed in collaboration with artist Olafur Eliasson, its honeycomb structure deliberately echoing Iceland’s basalt column formations. Worth a look from outside; the interior tours are available if architecture genuinely interests you.

The National Museum of Iceland on Sudurgata gives the clearest account of Icelandic settlement and history from the Viking age to the 20th century. The Viking-era artefacts section is particularly strong. Entry around 2,300 ISK, well-labelled in English.

Kolaportid, the weekend flea market on the harbour, runs Saturday and Sunday mornings and is worth a browse. The food section sells dried fish and hardfiskur (dried cod) that divide opinions strongly.

Day Trips

The Golden Circle covers Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal field, and Gullfoss waterfall in a 300km loop that most people complete in a day. Thingvellir is where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet at the surface and where Iceland’s parliament first assembled in 930 AD; both facts are extraordinary and both are underappreciated by people rushing through. Geysir’s Strokkur erupts every 6-10 minutes without fail. Gullfoss drops 32 metres into a canyon and sprays everything within 50 metres.

The South Coast route runs past Seljalandsfoss (which you can walk behind), Skogafoss waterfall, Reynisfjara black sand beach, and Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. Allow a full day; the glacier lagoon is five hours from Reykjavik. The drive is the experience.

Where to Eat

Dill on Hverfisgata is the finest restaurant in Iceland, Nordic tasting menu, expensive, reservation required months in advance. Worth it if that kind of meal is what you’re after. Messinn on Laekjargata does excellent fresh Icelandic fish at more moderate prices, around 3,500-4,500 ISK for a main. Braud and Co bakery has two central locations and does cinnamon swirls that are, without exaggeration, some of the best pastries in Northern Europe.

Snaps Bistro is a reliable mid-range choice with solid fish dishes and a consistently good ribeye. The tourist-facing places near Hallgrímskirkja are overpriced by 20-30% for what they offer; there’s no particular reason to eat there.

Where to Stay

The Apotek Hotel, a converted former pharmacy, is well-located and has a good restaurant. Canopy by Hilton near Harpa is modern, well-run, and reliably central. For budget: KEX Hostel and Loft Hostel are both genuinely excellent, far above the hostel average in quality and atmosphere.

Getting Around

Walking covers the city centre easily. A rental car is essential for day trips, and you should book it in advance, especially for summer months when demand peaks sharply. The road network outside Reykjavik is good. You’ll cover far more ground independently than on bus tours, at roughly comparable cost once you factor in tour prices.

The Flybus from Keflavik Airport to the Reykjavik bus terminal takes 45-50 minutes and costs around 3,000 ISK one-way. Taxis from the airport are expensive and the calculus rarely makes sense.