Lalibela: Eleven Churches Cut From Solid Rock, Still in Use Today

Lalibela was built in the 12th-13th centuries during the reign of King Lalibela, who intended it as a New Jerusalem for Ethiopian Christians who could not make the pilgrimage to the actual Jerusalem. The 11 churches were not built; they were carved downward into the red volcanic rock of the Ethiopian Highlands, the facades, walls, windows, and interiors all cut from a single continuous piece of stone. The largest, Bet Medhane Alem, is 12 metres tall and was carved from a single rock mass.

They are still active Orthodox Tewahedo Christian churches with regular services and thousands of pilgrims attending Ethiopian Christmas (Genna, January 7) and Timkat (Ethiopian Epiphany, January 19-20).

The Churches

The complex divides into three groups connected by tunnel passages cut through the rock.

The northwestern cluster includes Bet Medhane Alem (House of the Saviour of the World), the largest monolithic church in the world, supported by 28 columns. Next to it, Bet Maryam is the most ornate, with carved crosses and early Christian iconography on the ceiling. Bet Golgotha and the adjoining chapel of Bet Mikael are semi-monolithic, carved into a cliff face rather than freestanding.

The southeastern cluster’s standout is Bet Giyorgis (House of St. George), the most photogenic: a perfectly geometric cruciform church in a deep rectangular pit, with three Greek crosses carved in relief on the roof. This is the one in every Lalibela photograph. Completed around 1220, it was reportedly built as atonement by King Lalibela for the slaughter of animals during the construction of the other churches.

Visiting

Entry costs approximately $50 USD for a two-day pass (a single ticket used to be available, but a multi-day pass has been the standard for years; verify current pricing at the site as fees change). A guide costs roughly $20-30 per person per day and is strongly worth hiring: the theological and historical context for each church is deep, and having someone explain the iconography transforms the visit.

Remove shoes when entering churches. Women should have head coverings available; most church entrances have scarves available to borrow. Services happen throughout the day and the atmosphere during an active service is one of the more powerful things you can witness.

Getting There

Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa to Lalibela Airport daily (1 hour, around $100-150 USD return). The airport is 23km from town; minibuses and taxis cover the distance (around $15-25). There is no train.

Staying and Eating

Ben Abeba restaurant on the hillside above town is the most famous place to eat in Lalibela, a Frank Lloyd Wright-esque organic structure serving Ethiopian food with views across the valley. Injera with tibs (spiced lamb) or shiro (chickpea stew) runs about $8-12. Seven Olives Hotel is the reliable mid-range choice from around $60/night. Roha Hotel is a step up at around $90-120/night with a good restaurant.

Ethiopian Christmas (January 7) draws tens of thousands of pilgrims and is the most atmospheric time to visit. Book accommodation at least two months ahead for that week.