Sedona, Arizona: Red Rock Country Without the New Age Noise

Sedona sits at 1,300 metres in the Verde Valley of Arizona, 45 minutes south of Flagstaff, and the geology is the reason to come. The red Schnebly Hill sandstone formations rise 300-400 metres above the town: Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock, Courthouse Butte, Chimney Rock. The colour comes from iron oxide in the Permian-era sandstone. In the hour before sunset, the formations turn deep orange and the contrast with the blue sky produces genuinely extraordinary photographs, which is the source of the town’s significant influence on the 20th century photography scene through artists like Ansel Adams who visited repeatedly.

The town also has a significant spiritual tourism industry (vortex sites, crystal shops, healing retreats, energy readings). This detracts from nothing if you’re not interested in it, but it shapes the character of the place and is worth knowing before you arrive. The geology doesn’t care about the crystal shops.

Hiking

Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte Loop: 5.3km circuit, minimal elevation gain, good views of both formations. The right starting hike if you’ve just arrived; it gives you the landscape at eye level and the scale becomes clear quickly.

Cathedral Rock Trail: 1.5km return, but that understates it. The final push to the saddle involves boulder scrambling and sections with chains for assistance. The views from the saddle looking back toward Oak Creek are outstanding. About 2 hours return for a reasonably fit person.

Devil’s Bridge Trail: The most photogenic spot in Sedona, a natural sandstone arch accessible by a 6km return trail from the main trailhead. An ATV shuttle operates from operators along Dry Creek Road and shortens the approach. The arch is wide enough to walk across and the views looking west are the best panoramas in the area. Arrive before 8am in summer; the parking lot fills by 9:30.

All major trailheads require a Red Rock Pass ($5/day or $20/year per vehicle, purchased at parking kiosks).

Oak Creek Canyon

Highway 89A north from Sedona runs through Oak Creek Canyon for 20km up to Flagstaff. The creek runs year-round (unusual in Arizona) and Slide Rock State Park (entry $10-20/vehicle) has swimming holes in sandstone that stay cool into September. The drive through the canyon is worth doing for the scenery regardless of whether you stop to swim.

Where to Eat

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill (Airport Road) has red rock views from the terrace and serves consistently good food in the $30-55 main range. Book ahead for sunset.

Coffee Pot Restaurant in Uptown Sedona opens at 6am with a three-page breakfast menu. Get there before 8:30 to avoid the queue. Large portions, $25-35 for two with coffee.

Where to Stay

Sedona is expensive. L’Auberge de Sedona (creek-front, rooms from $450/night) is the luxury standard. More practical: Sky Rock Inn (doubles from $180) has good red rock views from the balconies.

Camp Verde or Cottonwood (20-30 minutes south) have chain hotels at $100-150/night if you’re willing to drive in for morning hikes.