Split: The Roman Emperor’s Retirement Palace and Everything Else

Diocletian built his retirement palace in Split between 295 and 305 AD - a fortified complex on the Dalmatian coast where he planned to spend his final years growing cabbages (his own explanation when urged to return to power). He died there in 311 AD and the palace eventually became the city itself. Today roughly 3,000 people live inside the palace walls, which makes the Diocletian’s Palace complex one of the few ancient Roman structures in the world that’s still inhabited. Apartments, restaurants, and bars occupy spaces that were once imperial apartments and temple porticoes.

Split is the largest city on the Croatian coast and the main ferry hub for the Dalmatian islands. Unlike Dubrovnik, it’s a working city that existed before tourism and continues to function outside tourist season. That makes it more interesting to spend time in.

Diocletian’s Palace

The palace is a 215 by 180 metre rectangle on the southern edge of the old city, with its southern wall running along the seafront. The four gates - Golden Gate (north), Silver Gate (east), Iron Gate (west), Bronze Gate (south, opening to the sea) - still stand. Entry to the palace complex is free and there are no barriers; it’s a living neighbourhood.

The Peristyle is the palace’s central courtyard, an open space flanked by columns. In the evenings it fills with people sitting on the steps. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Katedrala Sv. Duje) stands in what was Diocletian’s mausoleum, a good example of early medieval repurposing. The cathedral’s octagonal interior retains Roman carved friezes from the original structure alongside later medieval and baroque additions. Entry 35 HRK (approximately 5 euros). The cathedral bell tower can be climbed for good views over the old town rooflines.

The basement halls beneath the palace (Podrumi Dioklecijana) are largely intact and give the clearest sense of the palace’s original scale. The vaulted spaces were used as rubbish dumps for centuries, then cleared in the 20th century. They appear in Game of Thrones as the dragon dungeons, which has added significantly to their visitor numbers. Entry around 60 HRK.

Outside the Palace Walls

The old town extends north of the palace. The market at Pazar, just outside the Silver Gate on the eastern side, sells local produce every morning until around 13:00. This is where to buy figs, lavender products (lavender is farmed extensively on Hvar), local olive oil, and a variety of dried herbs.

Bačvice beach is a five-minute walk southeast of the palace along the seafront. A shallow, sandy bay popular with locals since the 19th century. The game traditionally played here is picigin, a uniquely Split ball game played in shallow water that involves preventing a small ball from touching the water, played standing. Locals play it year-round; watching a skilled group is worth stopping for.

Meštrović Gallery on the western waterfront (2 km from the palace, walkable along the promenade) houses a large collection of work by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most significant 20th-century sculptor. The building itself was his summer studio and is beautifully situated above the sea. Entry 120 HRK. If you have any interest in sculpture, this is the best place in Croatia to spend two hours.

Island Day Trips

Split is the ferry hub for the central Dalmatian islands. Hvar (one hour by catamaran, around 50 HRK) is the most fashionable destination on the coast, with a medieval fortress above the harbour town and lavender fields across its inland plain. Brač (50 minutes by ferry, around 35 HRK) has Zlatni Rat beach near Bol, a distinctive wedge-shaped pebble spit that changes shape with currents. Vis (2.5 hours by ferry) is the most remote inhabited island, less overrun than Hvar, with good wine (Vugava white and Plavac Mali red) and the Blue Cave on the adjacent island of Biševo accessible by boat from Vis.

The ferry terminal in Split (Split Trajektna Luka) is a few minutes walk from the palace’s Bronze Gate. Book tickets for the faster catamarans in advance in July and August; they sell out. Regular car ferries don’t require advance booking but take longer.

Where to Eat

Croatia switched to the euro in 2023. Prices have risen accordingly.

Konoba Matoni in the Veli Varoš neighbourhood west of the palace is the restaurant locals recommend over the tourist-facing places in the palace itself. Simple Dalmatian food: grilled fish, octopus salad, good local wine. The prstaci (date mussels stew, now illegal to harvest but still occasionally found on menus under other names - skip it) has been replaced by a good clam stew. Budget 30-50 euros per person with wine.

Šperun on Sperun Street in the old town is also reliable: slightly more formal, still rooted in Dalmatian classics, with a good wine list focused on Croatian labels including Dingac from Peljesac. Mains around 18-30 euros.

Paradox Wine and Cheese Bar near the Peristyle is a better wine bar than restaurant, but useful for an afternoon of Croatian wines by the glass with a cheese plate. Knowledgeable staff and a good selection including some smaller producers.

Where to Stay

Hotel Luxe on Kralja Zvonimira is a reliable mid-range option, 10 minutes walk from the palace. Modern rooms, good service. From around 120 euros per night in shoulder season.

Goli + Bosi on the Peristyle is a hostel-style property right inside the palace walls. Dorm beds from around 30 euros; private rooms available. The location is unmatched; the rooms are basic. Noise from evening Peristyle activity is part of the deal.

Book accommodation for July-August several months ahead. The city fills completely during peak summer and prices more than double. May, June, September, and October offer better value and the weather remains warm.

Currency and Practicalities

Croatia joined the Eurozone in January 2023. Cards are widely accepted in Split. The tourist season runs May through September; outside this period many island services operate on reduced schedules or close entirely.

Split Airport (SPU) is 25 km west of the city. Airport buses run to the city centre (about 30 HRK). Taxis cost around 200-250 HRK.