Sydney Opera House
Sydney Opera House: More Than the Photograph
Jorn Utzon won the 1957 international design competition with drawings that the engineering community initially said were structurally impossible. The problem was the shells: no one could figure out how to build curved roof forms of that scale with concrete. Utzon solved it by realising all the shells could be designed as fragments of a single sphere with a constant radius of 75 metres, which meant the precast concrete ribs could be manufactured identically. The solution sounds elegant in retrospect. It took years to work out. Utzon then resigned in 1966 before the building was finished, in a dispute with the NSW government over fees and design changes. He never returned to see the completed Opera House. The building opened in 1973.
Up close, the tile geometry is stranger and more beautiful than photographs suggest. Over a million Swedish Hoganas tiles in two shades clad the shells, arranged in a chevron pattern that catches light differently at different angles and times of day. The engineering is part of the aesthetic. This matters because the Opera House is often treated as a backdrop for photographs when it rewards actual looking.
Tours and Performances
Guided tours of the interior run daily, currently AUD $48 for adults, about 60 minutes. They cover the main Concert Hall, the Joan Sutherland Theatre, and backstage areas with good commentary about the building’s troubled construction history. The Concert Hall seats 2,679 people and the acoustic design is the building’s most praised functional achievement.
Backstage tours (AUD $175, 2.5 hours, starting at 07:00 before other visitors arrive) give access to stage machinery, rehearsal rooms, and areas closed in regular tours. Available daily except Sunday. Worth the extra cost if you’re interested in how a building of this scale actually operates.
For a performance: Opera Australia and the Sydney Symphony run most of the year. Cheap seats (A Reserve) are often available last-minute through the box office for around AUD $50-90. Going to hear the Sydney Symphony in the Concert Hall is one of the better cheap cultural experiences Sydney offers, and one that most visitors skip in favour of walking around the outside.
The Forecourt and Surroundings
The Monumental Steps up to the forecourt are a permanent public gathering place: buskers, lunchtime workers, harbour views without any admission fee. You can walk up and around the exterior of the building, look at the shells from below, and understand more about the structure without spending anything.
The Royal Botanic Garden begins immediately east. Mrs Macquarie’s Point, 20 minutes’ walk through the garden, has the famous postcard view back across the harbour with the Opera House and Harbour Bridge together. The walk there through the garden, along the harbour foreshore, is pleasant enough that it’s worth doing even if you’ve already seen the photograph.
Circular Quay is five minutes west: ferry terminal, train station, bus interchange, and the social spine of the harbour. The Overseas Passenger Terminal on the western side of the Quay has one of the better harbour views of the Opera House from the upper deck cafe.
Eating
Opera Bar on the lower forecourt is the standard choice for a drink with harbour views: outdoor tables, reasonable wine prices (AUD $15-22 a glass), no performance ticket required. It’s excellent for an afternoon or early evening with the building above you.
For a serious meal in the area, Quay restaurant in the Overseas Passenger Terminal runs a tasting menu at AUD $200-250 per person and is the benchmark for Australian fine dining. This is where Sydneysiders celebrate; that tells you something more useful than any international ranking.
Getting There
Train to Circular Quay (City Circle line), or ferry from various points around the harbour. The Manly Ferry (AUD $9.60 each way, 30 minutes) arrives at Circular Quay with the Opera House directly ahead, which is a memorable approach and arguably the best way to first see the building if you can arrange your schedule around it.