Travel on the Trans Siberian Railway
Six Days on the World’s Longest Train (And Why the Journey Is the Point)
The Trans-Siberian Railway does not get you anywhere quickly. That is, in a profound sense, the entire reason to take it.
Moscow to Vladivostok: 9,289 kilometres, eight time zones, six days minimum. The railway was built between 1891 and 1916 at the command of Tsar Alexander III and his son Nicholas II, who needed to knit European Russia to the Pacific with something more reliable than muddy roads. What they built was a political and engineering project so ambitious that workers died laying track across permafrost and around a lake the size of Belgium. It opened the Russian far east to settlement and, eventually, to tourists who arrive on the Rossiya train, buy instant noodles at platform kiosks, and discover something unexpected: slowing down is not wasted time.
A frank note before anything else: since Russia’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine, Western travel to Russia has become genuinely difficult. Most US, EU, UK, and Australian passport holders face significant barriers to obtaining tourist visas through normal channels. Western-issued bank cards have not worked in Russia since March 2022. The US State Department maintains a Level 4 Do Not Travel advisory. This guide covers the journey as it stands for travellers who have a valid pathway (dual nationals, travellers with certain visa types, or those using specialist operators), but check your government’s current advisory before planning anything. The situation is fluid.
That said, for travellers who can navigate entry: the railway itself is still running.
Understanding the Routes
“Trans-Siberian” refers to the main line from Moscow to Vladivostok, but there are two branches that most travellers on this route also consider. The Trans-Mongolian peels south from Ulan-Ude, crosses into Mongolia via Ulaanbaatar (a city worth at least two days), and continues to Beijing. The Trans-Manchurian stays in Russia until Zabaikalsk before crossing into northern China. The Beijing connection via Mongolia resumed in June 2025 after five years suspended during the pandemic.
Most independent travellers do not ride the full Moscow to Vladivostok stretch without stopping. The better approach is to pick three to five cities, exit the train, spend two to four days in each, and reboard. Riding the whole thing without stopping is an endurance exercise that impresses people at dinner parties but teaches you less about Siberia than getting off at Irkutsk does.
The Trains and What to Expect
The Rossiya train (Train no. 1/2) is the flagship service. Slower and cheaper alternatives exist (Train 99/100, for instance) that take a more leisurely pace across the same route.
Train Classes
Platzkart (third class) is an open-plan car with 54 berths arranged in bays of four, plus two side berths per bay. No compartment doors, no privacy, complete immersion. Meals happen communally, card games materialize across bay dividers, and the provodnitsa (the train attendant, who also manages the samovar) becomes a minor authority figure over the journey. For travellers who speak at least basic Russian, platzkart is the most interesting option. For travellers who do not, it can be disorienting in the early days.
Kupe (second class) is four-berth closed compartments. This is the sweet spot for most foreign travellers: you get a door, a degree of privacy, and a temporary family unit of whatever combination of passengers the booking algorithm produced. Sharing a kupe with three Russians on their way to Novosibirsk is a genuine education.
SV (first class) is two berths per compartment. Quieter, more expensive, and noticeably less interesting. Worth it if you are travelling with a partner and value uninterrupted sleep.
Major Stops
Moscow
Most journeys start here, and the city deserves three to five days before you board. The Yaroslavsky Vokzal is the Trans-Siberian’s departure station, a neo-Russian fantasy of turrets and tilework on Komsomolskaya Square. Before you board, walk the Kremlin, spend an hour in the Tretyakov Gallery, and eat somewhere that is not a hotel restaurant.
Yekaterinburg
The first major stop, roughly 1,800 kilometres from Moscow, is where the Urals separate Europe from Asia. The city is best known internationally as the site of the 1918 execution of the Romanov family, and the Church on the Blood, built on the site, is worth a visit, if an emotionally heavy one. There is also a marker on the Europe-Asia border that tourists photograph by the hundred, which is either meaningful or an elaborate joke depending on your mood.
Novosibirsk
Russia’s third-largest city sits on the Ob River and is notably less visited than Irkutsk, which works in its favour. The railway bridge over the Ob, built in 1897, was the longest in the empire at the time. The city’s opera and ballet theatre is the largest in Russia, which most guides omit because Novosibirsk suffers from a reputation as purely functional. It is not.
Irkutsk
The essential stop. Irkutsk is 70 kilometres by road from Lake Baikal, and the city itself retains enough nineteenth-century wooden architecture (lacework-trimmed window frames, merchant townhouses along the Angara river) to feel like somewhere rather than nowhere. Founded as a fort in 1652, it became a destination for political exiles under the tsars. The Decembrists, aristocratic revolutionaries who attempted a coup in 1825, were sent here. Their restored homes are open to visitors and are considerably more interesting than the signs promise.
Plan at least three days in Irkutsk: one for the city, two for Baikal.
Lake Baikal
The world’s largest freshwater lake by volume holds roughly 20 percent of the planet’s unfrozen surface fresh water. It is also the world’s deepest lake at 1,642 metres. The sheer fact of those numbers means little until you stand on the shore in August, watch the water turn from turquoise to dark blue two metres out, and understand why Buryat people have called it the Sacred Sea for centuries.
Listvyanka is the nearest village to Irkutsk (about an hour by marshrutka) and is the most touristed. It has a good fish market where you can buy omul, the Baikal-endemic fish that appears smoked, salted, and grilled everywhere along the lake. Olkhon Island, reached by a ferry that has been described charitably as rustic, is quieter and dramatically beautiful. For serious hiking, the Great Baikal Trail links sections of shoreline with routes ranging from day walks to multi-day crossings.
The Circum-Baikal Railway, a historic section of the original Trans-Siberian route that was bypassed in 1904 when a tunnel made it redundant, still runs as an excursion train along the southwestern shore. It is slow, scenic, and a better way to see the lake than a bus window.
Ulan-Ude
The capital of the Buryat Republic, 460 kilometres east of Irkutsk, is where Russian and Mongolian cultural worlds begin to merge. The city’s central square has a head of Lenin so large (7.7 metres tall, reportedly the world’s largest Lenin head) that it crosses the line from monument into absurdism. The Ivolginsky Datsan, 30 kilometres outside town, is the centre of Russian Buddhism and a functioning monastery worth several hours.
Vladivostok
The end of the line is a Pacific port city that spent decades closed to foreigners as a Soviet naval base. It opened to international visitors in 1992 and still carries something of the air of a city figuring out what it wants to be. The Russky Island Bridge, completed in 2012 for the APEC summit, is spectacular engineering. The submarine museum and the historic Vladivostok Fortress are worthwhile. The seafood is excellent: crab, scallops, and sea urchin are fresher here than anywhere in Russia.
Food on the Train
The dining car exists and serves food at prices that climb throughout the journey as captivity concentrates the mind. It is fine. It is not the point.
The real food culture of the Trans-Siberian happens at platform stops. When the train pauses in a town for ten to forty minutes, babushkas appear on the platform with smoked fish, meat pies, potatoes, and beer. Buy from them. Do this every time the train stops and you will eat better and more cheaply than the dining car offers, and you will understand something about the economic ecology of the railway towns you pass through.
Bring your own supplies for the first couple of days: bread, dried sausage, fruit, chocolate, tea bags, a thermos mug. Every car has a samovar providing hot water around the clock. Instant noodles, prepared in your kupe and eaten while watching birch forest scroll past the window, become a surprisingly satisfying meal by day three.
Practical Logistics
Tickets: Book through a specialist agency if approaching from outside Russia, or through the Russian Railways website (rzd.ru) if you have the language capacity and a payment method that works. Prices vary enormously by class and season, but a kupe berth for the full Moscow to Vladivostok run runs in the range of $150 to $250 USD, excluding any stops.
Connectivity: Sporadic. You will have signal through cities and nothing across the larger Siberian stretches. Download maps, reading material, and podcasts before you board. Consider this a feature rather than a problem.
Time zones: The train runs on Moscow time throughout the journey, regardless of where it physically is. This can make platform stop times confusing. Check your Moscow time against the local time when planning what to do during longer stops.
Best season: June to August for the warmth and Baikal swimming. February and March for Lake Baikal’s ice, which develops cracks large enough to kayak through and forms pressure ridges that look like blue glass stalagmites. Winter travel on the train itself is comfortable since the carriages are heated to a temperature that inspires removing layers immediately.
The Trans-Siberian is often described as a journey through time rather than just space. That is partly romantic shorthand, but there is something true in it. Siberia is genuinely different from western Russia, which is genuinely different from Moscow, and the train covers that distance slowly enough that you register the shift. By day four, the birch forests have given way to taiga. The sky is different. The light is different. The people in the platzkart car are speaking a version of Russian you cannot quite parse.
That disorientation is what you came for. Arrive in Vladivostok, stand at the Pacific, and the distance you have crossed will feel, for a moment, entirely real.