Trinity College Dublin: The Book of Kells and Everything Around It

Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Elizabeth I on the site of a dissolved Augustinian monastery. It remains the only constituent college of the University of Dublin, which makes it slightly unusual constitutionally. The campus sits directly in the middle of the city, entered through an archway off College Green, and covers 47 acres of cobbled squares and Georgian buildings.

The main reason most visitors come is the Book of Kells.

The Book of Kells

The Book of Kells is a 9th-century illuminated gospel book, almost certainly created by monks on the island of Iona before being brought to Kells Monastery in County Meath during Viking raids. Its elaboration, the carpet pages and the decorated initials and the interlaced figures, is extraordinary. Only two pages are on display at any given time; the exhibition rotates them periodically to protect the vellum from light damage.

The exhibition leading up to the book covers the history of early Christian manuscripts and the specific techniques used in this one. Allow 30-40 minutes for the exhibition before reaching the book itself.

The Long Room, the upper floor of the Old Library above the exhibition, is the payoff: a 65-metre barrel-vaulted hall with marble busts of scholars lining the walkway and 200,000 leather-bound volumes in two levels of dark oak shelves. The smell alone is worth mentioning. An original printing of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic is displayed at the far end.

Combined tickets for the Book of Kells and Long Room: around €18-22 for adults. Book online in advance, especially in summer; walk-up availability is limited. Opening hours are 09:30-17:00 Monday-Saturday, shorter on Sundays.

The Campus

The Front Square and Library Square are freely accessible (no ticket required) during daylight hours. The campanile in Front Square (mid-19th century, 30 metres tall) is the visual centre of the college. The Science Gallery on Pearse Street just south of the main campus runs rotating contemporary exhibitions on science and society intersections; entry is usually free and the quality is consistently high.

The Douglas Hyde Gallery inside the Arts Building (entered from Nassau Street) is a free contemporary art gallery running 4-5 exhibitions per year. Worth checking what’s on.

Eating Around Trinity

The Winding Stair on Ormond Quay, 10 minutes’ walk from the college, is the benchmark for modern Irish cooking: simple ingredients, seasonal menu, around €35-50 per person. The smoked salmon and the brown bread dessert are reliable.

On the cheap end: Govindas on Aungier Street serves good-value vegetarian Indian food for under €12 per person. The Fumbally Cafe in the Liberties neighbourhood (20 minutes’ walk) has excellent coffee and lunch plates.

Avoid the restaurants directly on Dame Street adjacent to the college entrance; the prices are tourist-facing.

Getting Around Dublin

The Luas tram Line (green line to Broombridge, stops at St. Stephen’s Green), the DART suburban rail, and dense bus routes all serve the city centre. Dublin Bikes (station adjacent to the college on Westmoreland Street) costs €5 for a 3-day ticket with unlimited 30-minute trips. Walking is realistic for most of the main attractions from the Trinity area.