To Sua Ocean Trench: Samoa’s Most Photographed Swimming Hole

To Sua (the name means “big hole” in Samoan) is a large ocean trench on the south coast of Upolu, connected to the sea by underground lava tubes. The water inside is deep blue-green, the walls are lush, and a long wooden ladder is the only way down. It’s a 30-second swim across and back. It’s also genuinely extraordinary.

The trench sits on a private family plot near the village of Lotofaga, about 40km from Apia. Entry costs WST $20 (around $7 USD). Opening hours are roughly 08:00-17:00. There is a small garden, a fale (open-sided shelter) for changing, and a basic cafe. The whole thing is managed simply and authentically; there are no queues, no gift shops, and no crowds except on weekend afternoons.

Getting to To Sua

From Apia, drive east along the Cross Island Road and then south toward the east coast, or take the south coast road through Lefaga. The south coast road is more scenic. The drive takes about 45 minutes to an hour. There is no public bus that goes directly. Rental cars are available in Apia from around WST $100-150/day; this is the most practical option. Alternatively, hire a taxi from Apia for the day for around WST 150-200 all-in.

Most visitors combine To Sua with Piula Cave Pool, a fresh-water cave pool in the grounds of a Methodist college east of Apia (free entry, modest dress required), and the Falefa Falls further along the coast road.

The South Coast

The area around Lotofaga is the quieter, more agricultural side of Upolu. Villages are spread along the road, each centred around its church (Samoa is deeply religious; Sunday is genuinely quiet everywhere). The coastline has dramatic cliffs, blowholes, and small beaches, most accessible only through village land.

Lalomanu Beach at the far east of the island is consistently rated among the best beaches in the Pacific: pale sand, clear water, fales for rent right on the beach (around WST $80-120/night for a beach fale with meals). The village-operated fales are basic, the food is fresh fish and local produce, and the morning light over the water is remarkable.

Where to Stay

Apia has the range: Aggie Grey’s Hotel is the island’s historic upmarket option (from WST $300/night), named after a woman who became famous during World War II as a local entrepreneur and hostess. For something simpler, Sadie’s by the Sea near the waterfront runs around WST 120-150/night.

The beach fales at Lalomanu mentioned above are the most memorable option if you’re willing to forgo air conditioning and have the time to venture to the east.

Practical Notes

Samoa observes strict Sunday customs; most shops and restaurants close and some roads are quiet. Plan grocery shopping and long drives for Saturday or Monday.

The SAMEx bus network from Apia is cheap (WST 2-4 per ride) and covers the north coast and Apia surroundings well, but the south coast requires private transport.

Entry to Samoa is through Faleolo International Airport, about 35km west of Apia; LATAM and Fiji Airways operate regional connections through Nadi.