Valley of the Kings: The Tombs That Changed Egyptology

The Valley of the Kings (Wadi al-Muluk) is a dry ravine on the Nile’s west bank opposite Luxor, used as a royal necropolis for 500 years during the New Kingdom period, from the 16th to 11th centuries BC. Archaeologists have identified 63 tombs here. The most famous — KV62, the tomb of Tutankhamun — was found sealed and almost intact in 1922 by Howard Carter, giving the world the first complete picture of what royal Egyptian burials actually contained. Everything before that had been plundered.

The valley is about 5km from Luxor’s west bank ferry landing, usually reached by minibus, donkey cart, or taxi through sugarcane fields and the village of Gurna.

The Tombs

Your standard ticket covers three tombs; you choose which from those currently open (the rotation changes as conservation work proceeds). A few worth knowing about:

KV62 — Tutankhamun: Costs an additional £E300 on top of the standard ticket. The sarcophagus and the mummy are still in situ, though most of the famous treasures (the golden death mask, the throne, the chariots) are at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The tomb itself is small — Tutankhamun died young and was buried quickly — but seeing the painted walls and the actual burial chamber is a different experience from seeing photographs. Worth the extra cost.

KV17 — Seti I: One of the deepest and most elaborately decorated tombs in the valley. 137 metres long, ceiling covered in astronomical texts, walls painted with scenes from the Amduat (what happens to the sun god during the 12 hours of night). Currently closed for conservation; check status before visiting.

KV9 — Ramesses VI: Open and impressive — a 104-metre corridor leading into the burial chamber, covered in astronomical ceilings showing the Book of the Night. This is the tomb that sealed Tutankhamun’s entrance for 3,000 years (workers quarried stone spoil directly over KV62’s entrance). No extra charge.

KV11 — Ramesses III: Unusual for its side chambers, one of which (the Harper’s Room) contains the famous blind harpists painting. Long and visually varied.

Practical Details

Opening hours are 6am-5pm daily. The heat inside the tombs is significant even in winter; bring water, wear lightweight clothing. Photography is now permitted inside most tombs (flash is not). The site has a small tram between the entrance and the valley proper — worth using in summer (EGP 5 each way).

The Tomb of Ay and the Valley of the Queens are nearby but require separate tickets. The Valley of the Queens contains Nefertari’s Tomb (KV66) — among the finest painted tombs in Egypt, with colours remarkably preserved. Separate ticket, currently around £E1,400.

Luxor Practical Information

Getting there from Cairo: Luxor is 670km south. Easiest is the 1-hour flight (EgyptAir, from around $80 one way); or the overnight train from Cairo Ramses Station (12 hours, around £E500 for first class). Both are reliable.

West bank vs. east bank: The main temples (Luxor Temple, Karnak) are on the east bank. The Valley of the Kings, Medinet Habu, and the Ramesseum are on the west. A local ferry crosses from Luxor to Gurna for a few Egyptian pounds; the tourist ferry is faster but more expensive.

Where to stay: Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor is the historic choice — a colonial-era hotel with a garden facing the Nile, where Agatha Christie finished Death on the Nile. Mid-range: Steigenberger Nile Palace has a pool and clean rooms at around $80/night. Budget: Philippe Hotel near Luxor Temple is functional and cheap.

Best time to visit: October to February, when daytime temperatures are around 22-28°C. Summer (June-August) is routinely above 40°C.