Venice: The City That Exists Despite All Reason

Venice is 118 islands connected by 400 bridges, built on wooden piles driven into the mud of a lagoon off the Adriatic coast. The foundations, alder wood piles that have been submerged for centuries, have actually hardened to a stone-like consistency through anaerobic preservation. The city has been continuously inhabited since the 5th century, when the mainland population retreated here from Attila’s forces and decided to stay. It is entirely pedestrian; there are no cars, no bikes, and no mopeds on the main island.

Around 30 million people visit annually. The resident population is 50,000 and declining. The city has been implementing entrance fees and visitor management measures since 2024. Check the current requirements at veneziaunica.it before visiting; day-trippers arriving on certain busy days may now face a fee of around €5-10.

St. Mark’s

Piazza San Marco is the only piazza in Venice; all other squares are campo. It floods seasonally (acqua alta) and the elevated walkway planks you may see being installed in autumn and winter are functional infrastructure, not theatre.

St. Mark’s Basilica was built in the 9th century to house the remains of St. Mark the Evangelist, brought from Alexandria under circumstances that contemporaries considered dubious. The golden interior mosaics cover 8,000 square metres and are among the finest in Europe. Entry is free; the Pala d’Oro (gold altarpiece) costs €3 extra. Book a timed entry at basilicasanmarco.it to skip the main queue.

Doge’s Palace next door was Venice’s seat of government for a millennium. The Bridge of Sighs connecting the interrogation rooms to the prison is best seen from the Rio di Palazzo at dusk, from the bridge on Riva degli Schiavoni looking into the canal. Entry around €25.

Getting Around

On foot is the only way to understand the layout. Allow yourself to get lost in the calli (alleys) of Dorsoduro or Cannaregio, quieter, cheaper, and often more interesting than the tourist spine.

Vaporetti (water buses): a single ride is €9.50; a 24-hour pass (€25) makes sense if you’re taking more than two. Line 1 runs the full Grand Canal. Line 2 is express.

Gondolas: €80-100 for 30-40 minutes, more after 7pm. Worth doing once for the perspective from canal level in the narrower waterways. Agree all terms before getting in.

The Islands

Murano (15 minutes by vaporetto) is where Venetian glass has been made since 1291. The Glass Museum is good; the quality of glass for sale varies from tourist souvenirs to genuine craft.

Burano (45 minutes) is the fishing island with brightly painted houses, each a different colour so fishermen could identify their home in fog, and excellent seafood restaurants. Trattoria al Gatto Nero has been there since 1965.

Torcello (5 minutes beyond Burano) has a cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta, founded 639 CE) with Byzantine mosaics that predate St. Mark’s and are arguably better. Almost no one goes. Go.

Food and Drink

Cicchetti are Venice’s version of tapas: small plates of seafood, crostini, baccalà (salt cod) served at bacari (wine bars) with a glass of house wine (ombra). This is how Venetians eat. All’Arco near the Rialto market is standing room only and excellent. Cantina do Spade nearby has been operating in some form since the 1400s.

Avoid any restaurant within 200 metres of the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark’s Square. The best seafood in Venice is in Cannaregio and Dorsoduro.

Where to Stay

Aman Venice and Cipriani are the grand luxury options. Mid-range: Hotel Moresco in Dorsoduro is small and well-placed. Budget: staying in Mestre on the mainland (€40-60/night) and taking the 10-minute train to Santa Lucia station cuts costs significantly without significantly extending journey times.