Iguazu Falls: Both Sides of the Border

Eleanor Roosevelt, reportedly, saw Iguazu Falls for the first time and said, “Poor Niagara.” Whether or not she actually said it, the comparison is apt. Iguazu is 275 waterfalls strung across nearly 3km of the Iguazu River on the border between Argentina and Brazil. The biggest single drop, the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo), sends the equivalent of 1,500 cubic metres of water per second 80 metres into a narrow gorge with a roar you feel in your chest. Niagara is impressive. Iguazu is something else.

No photograph does it justice. This is not the usual travel cliche. At the devil’s throat walkway, the spray soaks you from 200 metres away, the sound makes conversation impossible, and the scale only registers in relation to the swifts nesting in the cliff face who look genuinely miniature in front of it.

The Argentine Side

The Argentine side puts you in among the falls. The Upper and Lower Circuit trails wind through subtropical forest and over catwalks that bring you level with, and sometimes above, the water. The Devil’s Throat walkway extends over the river to within metres of the main drop. You will get wet; this is not a design flaw.

Entry to the Argentine Iguazú National Park costs around 4,000-5,000 Argentine pesos for foreigners (prices fluctuate with the exchange rate; check current figures before visiting). The park runs boat tours that drive directly under the falls, budget an extra hour and the additional fee if the queue is manageable.

The Brazilian Side

The Brazilian Parque Nacional do Iguaçu offers the panoramic perspective: a single long walkway runs along the cliff edge with the full width of the falls in sustained view. This is where you take the photograph. Entry costs around R$115 for foreigners (2024 rates; check current pricing). You can cross from Puerto Iguazú on the Argentine side by taxi or shuttle in about 45 minutes.

The helicopter tours from the Brazilian side are controversial (noise disturbance to nesting wildlife is documented) and in my view not worth the cost. The view from the walkway is better and costs a fraction of the price.

Which Side?

Go Argentine side if you have one day. Do both if you have two. The Argentine side has the superior physical experience; the Brazilian side has the superior photographic one. They are not substitutes for each other.

Where to Stay

Most visitors base themselves in Puerto Iguazú on the Argentine side. A decent small town with adequate accommodation at prices that don’t charge for the proximity to the falls. The Sheraton Iguazú Resort sits inside the national park itself with fall-facing balconies, and costs accordingly. Hotel Loi Suites Iguazú is a step down in price and worth considering.

For budget options, hostels along Avenida Córdoba in Puerto Iguazú run regular shuttles to the park.

Where to Eat

El Quincho del Tío Querido on Bompland in Puerto Iguazú is consistently good for Argentine grilled meats. Eat outside the park; the in-park restaurants are overpriced and unremarkable.

Timing

The falls are accessible year-round. The dry season (April through September) means lower water levels but better trail conditions. The wet season produces more dramatic falls but can close lower trails and the humidity is heavy. Avoid Argentine school holidays (July and January) if crowds bother you. The park opens at 8am; go directly to the Devil’s Throat first.