Iguazu Falls: Both Sides of the Border

Iguazu is 275 waterfalls strung across nearly 3km of the Iguazu River, split between Argentina and Brazil. No photograph does it justice. The full volume of sound and spray when you’re standing at the rail above the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo) with water thundering into the gorge 80 metres below is genuinely overwhelming in a way that requires no hyperbole.

The practical question everyone eventually asks: which side? The short answer is both, if you have two days. If you only have one, go Argentine.

The Argentine Side

The Argentine side puts you in among the falls, not just in front of them. The Upper and Lower Circuit trails wind through subtropical forest and over catwalks that bring you level with, and sometimes above, the water. The Devil’s Throat walkway extends over the river to within metres of the main drop. You will get soaked.

Entry to the Argentine Iguazú National Park is around 4,000-5,000 Argentine pesos (prices change frequently due to inflation — check current rates). The park runs boat tours that drive directly under the falls; budget an extra hour and the additional fee if the queue isn’t too long.

The Brazilian Side

The Brazilian Parque Nacional do Iguaçu offers the panoramic perspective: a single long walkway runs along the cliff edge, giving you the full width of the falls in one sustained view. It’s where you take the photograph. Entry is around R$115 for foreigners. The helicopter tour from the Brazilian side is controversial (noise disturbance to wildlife) and in our view not worth it.

You can cross the border on a day trip from the Argentine town of Puerto Iguazú, which takes about 45 minutes by taxi or shuttle.

Where to Stay

Most visitors base themselves in Puerto Iguazú on the Argentine side. It’s a decent, unpretentious small town with plenty of accommodation options. The Sheraton Iguazú Resort sits inside the national park itself, with balconies literally overlooking the falls, and costs accordingly. Hotel Loi Suites Iguazú is a step down in price and a short drive from the park entrance.

For budget options, hostels along Avenida Córdoba in Puerto Iguazú are fine and well-connected by bus to the park.

Where to Eat

Puerto Iguazú has a surprisingly decent restaurant scene for its size. El Quincho del Tío Querido on Bompland is consistently good for Argentine grilled meats. Avoid eating inside the park itself if possible — the food is overpriced and unremarkable.

Timing

Iguazu is accessible year-round but rainfall matters. The dry season (April-September) means lower water levels but better trail conditions and cooler temperatures. The wet season produces the most dramatic falls — water everywhere — but some lower trails may be closed and the humidity is punishing. Avoid Argentine school holidays (July and the first half of January) if crowds bother you.

The falls open at 8am. Go straight to the Devil’s Throat first, before the day-trippers arrive.