Yangtze River: The Gorges Are Still There, But Not as They Were

The Three Gorges Dam was completed in 2003. The reservoir behind it raised water levels by 80-175 metres in the gorge sections, submerging the lower cliff faces, the old river towns that had operated since the Han dynasty, and over 1,300 archaeological sites. Some of the famous hanging coffins wedged in cliff faces above the waterline are still visible; others disappeared. Around 1.4 million people were relocated. Whether this was the right trade-off for flood control and hydroelectric generation is a legitimate debate with no clean answer; what is not debatable is that the Yangtze through the Three Gorges looks different from how it looked in every photograph taken before 2003.

The gorge scenery is still magnificent. The walls are hundreds of metres deep, the geology is extraordinary, and the Qutang Gorge at its narrowest is still one of the more dramatic river passages in the world. Knowing the changed context sharpens rather than diminishes the experience - you’re looking at a landscape that has been deliberately altered at enormous human cost, and understanding that while sailing through it is part of what the journey offers.

The Cruise

The classic route runs Chongqing to Yichang (or the reverse) in 3-5 days depending on the vessel. Chinese cruise ships range from basic ferry accommodation to air-conditioned vessels with private cabins and dining rooms. Most foreign visitors book through international operators using mid-range vessels; this costs more but reduces language barrier problems and includes interpretation of what you’re seeing.

The Qutang Gorge is the shortest and most dramatic: barely 8 kilometres, cliffs rising 1,200 metres. Wu Gorge extends 42 kilometres with 12 named peaks on each bank, historically associated with a goddess legend that predates the Three Kingdoms period. Xiling Gorge is longest at 76 kilometres and most varied. Most cruises divert into the Shennong Stream tributary for a smaller-boat excursion through narrower gorges - the most intimate portion of the journey.

The dam itself is visited as part of all cruises. The original five-step lock system that carries vessels between water levels operates slowly and the wait can be several hours; the newer ship elevator handles smaller vessels faster. The visitor centre covers the engineering thoroughly and the controversy minimally.

Chongqing

Chongqing, the western departure point, is a city of 32 million people spread across hills at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers. Fog for much of the year; fiery mala hotpot as the defining culinary tradition. The hotpot here uses Sichuan peppercorns and dried chillies to produce a mouth-numbing heat that is genuinely different from the version you’ve had elsewhere. This is an argument for spending a day or two there before the cruise.

The Dazu Rock Carvings, 2 hours from Chongqing, are UNESCO-listed Buddhist and Confucian sculptures carved into cliff faces between the 7th and 13th centuries - among the finest in China. Day trip from Chongqing.

Timing and Booking

April-May and September-October are the best months: good temperatures, clear weather, lower crowds than summer. Book 2-3 months ahead for these windows. Chinese domestic cruise booking is significantly cheaper than international operators but assumes Mandarin ability; international operators are expensive but significantly easier to navigate.